Here's my OTS for sale on eBay 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ceriatone-Overtone-Special-Dumble-EVM12S-Boutique-/190562232178?pt=UK_MusicalInstr_Amplifiers_RL&hash=item2c5e64e772

Here's my OTS for sale:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ceriatone-Overtone-Special-Dumble-EVM12S-Boutique-/190562232178?pt=UK_MusicalInstr_Amplifiers_RL&hash=item2c5e64e772

@Nigel T.

Nik stated that he will NOT ship out kits, only his team will assemble the amp.

Shame, I'd love the kit!

Christ guys, calm down!! haha

The OTS I have isn't built in head format, it's in a 1x12 combo with a EVM12S. So the option of having a C-Lator built-in is neigh on impossible. I just want to use reverb or a delay with the amp, and for that option I need a D-Lator kind of thing.

I am considering the option of the Digitech RP100 though, if it does what it does! I'll have a buffer and effects to choose from. In my opinion, reverb is reverb. But my amp at the moment is far too dry and a little slapback or reverb will make the entire difference. At at $60 on ebay, I can't really go wrong!!

Does anyone object??

Thanks for reply. I was hoping for more pedalboard friendly setup to be honest. How good is the Kleinulator? Is it on par with the C-Lator or the Fuchs Verbrator, which are both tube-driven. Is there much of a difference in tone? SERIOUSLY??

I know that when the PAB is engaged all the tone controls are bypassed, it's a no-brainer. BUT, I was hoping to perhaps change a resitor or capacitor, so that when the PAB IS engaged, there'll be more bottom end to the sound. At the moment, changing from stock OD channel to PAB, the bottom end disapears. Is it something to do with the circuitry? I love the more gainy sound the PAB gives, but the bottom end just goes away......

I've seen a few lurking around forums and stuff. I want one thats pedal size and good quality. I understand that the C-Lator and Bludo are the ones to get, but to be honest, I havent got room for a rack-size unit and would like something in the $100-$150 range, pedal size. I seen a Carl Martin Paraloop that looks cool, same inputs and outputs etc as the Fuchs FX Looper, minus tube also Minus the $350 price. Does anyone know of any??

I just changed my Celestion Vintage 30 16ohm speaker for a EVM12S 8ohm in my 1x12 OT Combo. My oh my, what a difference! Gone are the ice-picky treble highs, more clarity, more everything. Are there any other simple mods I can do to make the most out of the already great sounding amp? I would love more bottom end, the tone controls aren't very sensitive to an already sensitive amp. STRANGE!! Especially when the PAB is engaged, all the bottom end goes.......

Anyone seen this on youtube?:



What a tone. Does Nik offer anything that sounds like this?

@plasticvonaband, I didn't plug to red probes in. I did one at a time, one red probe, one black probe. I left the black probe in the black test point at all times, then switched between the two red probes, back and fore to test the bias. It does sound like two power tubes are being tested together, but surely turning the bias pot up and down would change the readings, but it didnt. I set the multimeter to mV as required. Left the speaker in cos it's already in a combo build, all dials were zero. Is there something I'm missing? I'll try and take a photo to see if anyone could help.

Yes, the amp is fully operational. I replaced the HT fuse which cured the problem of no sound. Now the amp is back like it used to be - loud and proud. I put the black probe into the black test point in between the two power tubes, then the red probe into the red test point of each tube left and right. I switch on the multimeter on to read 'mv' and begin testing.....then the readings baffled me.....don't know what else to do!! I don't want to blow the amp again. If anything, I'd rather run the amp 'cold' to prolong tube life, I just don't know which way to turn the dial, it's either 'blow' the amp again or 'cold'. But I'm not taking a chance in guessing! Please help.

I just tried biasing the OTS via black to earth point and red probes into the test points either side of the power tubes, flicking the amp on to Operate and switching the digi MM on. The readings kind of baffled me somewhat. The reading on one side was 150.6mv and the other was 170.6mv, surely I must be reading this wrong, but it's a simple thing to do. I also turned the dial to one end to the other and not much of a difference in readings. Maybe 20mv difference. Please help on this cos I seem to be doing something totally wrong.

I know exactly what you mean. The amp actually 'amplifies' the sound of flicking the tube with a chopstick. Does this mean the tube has to be discarded in the trash? Seems like a waste of workmanship, especially if the tube is vintage like a GE or RCA for example, it can't be 'reconditioned'??

Yes, it's all fine now. 500ma fuse is in and the amp is working and sounding fine. There was a microphonic 12AX7 in V1, which made a horrific noise when on the OD channel and PAB engaged, but that's been changed and all working. The tube must have took a knock also somehow. It's not the most sturdy of amps though. I have a Vibrolux Custom which has been going solid without any problems for years.

Saying that, I can now really tell how touch sensitive the amp is, not even by playing a string. When you move around with the guitar lead, you can hear the signal passing through it, it's wicked. The amp really is ALIVE!!!

I didn't build the amp myself. I bought it from a well respected amp builder, but maybe he can fuck up sometimes I guess. I haven't adjusted the bias or the internal OD trimmer. To be honest I'm not sure how to tweak an amp like this. As in, how much is too much? Will I damage the amp by this. Is there a setting on the bias/OD trimmer I could set it to sound great without messing with it. I do have an ear for tone, but I'm also prone to breaking amps by fucking about with them too. I was told on here to set the bias to 35-40mv, the same as milliamps because of the 1ohm resistor that's supposedly installed on the circuit.