Read Todd's post, Kevster, then you might understand.

There is no point sourcing a chassis and pots, knobs from Nik, *bare bones* if you have to go through the whole thing again with yet more international shipping to get the components you need.

You may as well scratch build it.

Sorry mate, I have no idea about your soldering... 

I think you are quite wrong on a number of points Kevster, one being the sourcing of the correct components from a layout is both time-consuming, expensive and easy to get wrong, for us Brits it means dealing with multiple sources on a different continent.

Don't assume a scratch build saves money, try one and see

I started out with an Ampmaker 5w SE then made the massive leap to an OTS.

Because of Nik's great support and help from TAG, it was a successful build and I have since gone on to scratch build a Dlator and a 5w EL84 D style amp. I have also built my own cabs.

Sourcing parts is a nightmare and I really like Nik's kits because that expensive and frustrating part is done for you.

Kits are the way to go, it keeps costs down and helps us afford what would just be a dream - our dream amps.

I am now confident of scratch building anything, but I really don't want to go through the parts nightmare again anytime soon! I wanted to build my godson a Chupacabra kit sometime but I guess I will have to think again - not that it was sold as a kit, though. I just hoped it would.

If Nik had produced an assembly manual, then that may have taken some of the support heat off him...?

I must add that the HRM mod was kindly given to me by Henry at Redplate Amps, so he should be acknowledged for passing on his tips.
It's a great thing when a top pro builder takes the time to help you out, even though you've never spent a cent with him and (being poor) are not likely too, even though his amps rock big time!

+me

D tone would have been just a dream for me without Nick, but also without TAG forum guys too.


Even though the kit is pretty tough to build, as a noob, it gave me the confidence to scratch build the D-lator.

I would definitely tackle a scratch build but TBH, I like dealing with Nik, even though I would get my butt
kicked at TAG, as it is widely felt that Nik never really acknowledeged the info available on there or contributed
in the way Talbany, Glaswerks and Henry did.
But I guess he's not the only one who ever did that

Anyway, politics aside, I often look at my amp and can't quite believe I have the D sound right here in my living room

Lovely...message sent

Erwin, that is a great sound on "335!"

Could you please tell me your settings especially the channel used and outboard gear such as reverb and Dlator etc.

I must have a go at tweaking mine more towards this "purer" sound
Regards
Rog

Put the heater wires up and neatly twisted (look at some D-style examples) and the other wires parallel and flat on the chassis.
These amps are very sensitive to lead dress and this can affect tone, sustain, bloom and BUZZZZZZZ

Don't splice wires, it will look a mess, redo it with new wire.

I really would advise you to follow accepted methods with D style amps, otherwise you will be in for a rough ride when you get it going.

Right here... mckinku's build

http://ceriatoneforum.com/index.php?topic=1160.0


Plenty of pics here  - download them and have a good look

http://www.ceriatone.com/productSubPages/Overtone/CTOvertoneCompleteAmp.htm


Also a good step by step video

http://www.overtonehrm.com/video/default.html

+1 Erwin and Hywelg

http://www.webervst.com/tubes1/calcbias.htm

Put in your plate voltage - mine's around 470v, class is AB and tube type 6L6GC = 44.6mA (or mV, as measured at the bias points), that's 70% of plate dissipation and so is deemed a "hot" bias. As has been said, try from  32mV upwards to get the tone that you like.

Just nearing the end of my build, I'm really looking forward to it now

Great playing and range of tones!
Especially liked it at 9:20 of the Dumble medley.

A top demo of all you can get out of these amps, which is exactly why I got one

Well I cant make up my mind, but I think I prefer the 10H choke. It is difficult to tell any difference at all, but my gut feeling is to stick with the 10H.

More important has been the tweaking of the PI trim, the internal and external OD trim, the HRM trims, and finding the right V1-3 tubes. I have also biased up to 44 mV @ 472v. HRM on or off with PAB makes a huge difference too

It is sounding superb both clean and OD. I can dial up a wide range of tones using the mind-numbing range of options via switching, pots and the guitar controls. I would say that it favours HB over SC, my Strat with a HB at the bridge really sounds great. Of course, at gig volumes this could be very different, so far I have just played loudly at home

I am working on two tunes at the moment, Blue Bossa to play with a trumpet/ sax player that I jam with, so that will give the cleans a good workout, and a good BT of "Some day after a while" which gives the chance to ghet some blues rock tones going.

I would say that tone without HRM is both easier to dial in and more "liquid", but I think HRM might be better for say a more Gary Moore blues rock tone.

There are a lot of options and the OTS HRM has so far exceeded my expectations.
The biggest problem is getting some usable reverb and delay into it. I have ditched the Midiverb and am just using my Hardwire RV7 for a dash of 'verb. Looks like more expense is needed to get the D'lator built, and get some better kind of rack effects into it.

For now though, I am happy just getting used to the OTS HRM and enjoying the great sustain even at low volumes.

Great, thanks for that

Hi there, just finished my HRM too. Very good build thread there, well done! I also noticed you mentioned that the Master didn't work on the OD channel. Mine also, is this right or did I do something wrong too? I was going to email Nik about this but I have probably bugged him enough... LOL