yes, but you'll need a dumblator

I am not an electrician, but I have been wiring guitars and cables for almost 40 years. I am sure I could manage this little mod myself - the diagram is great. Thx. for that.

One stupid question: what is a dumblator?

And will it work with pedals and fx-units with different impedances?

Cheers Brett

Hi wyatt, thanks.

I looked at the schematic and the wire between the treble pot and the resister gets split - the point of inception for the interupt loop (lol).

If I understand that correctly then I do not need anything else - right? You mention buffer but I do not need to add anything physically or do I? I am blindly trusting the schematic...

One question still left - if the line to the resistor is cut to the fx-loop and imagine the fx-loop is unused (for whatever reason...) then surely the treble pot becomes deactivated? I would need a short cable from Send&Return I guess..

Looking forward to any replaies - Cheers Brett

Well, the effects loop referred to in these schematics is a straight "insert" effects loop, which is okay for line-level (2-watt, 0db) outboard effects but won't cut it for many instrument level (.5 watt, -20db) effects (in short, in a simple insert loop, some pedals may sound like crap).  You have to have a buffer in there to correct for line-level or instrument-level effects.  On most factory amps, this is part of the amp design (most commercial amps don't use simple insert loops), they use a tube or op-amp gain stage in front to buffer the signal going into the loop (and another for mixing the return in parallel loops) to correct for that instrument-level signal. 

Now it is possible to do this outboard, which is what a device like the Dumblator does.  And some buffered effects do a decent job correcting for non-buffered effects placed after them. 

I don't think so. The fender spring reverb units do buffer the signal but they produce less output than what goes into them.