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Author Topic: Overtone loudness  (Read 5888 times)
cooler21
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« on: January 08, 2011, 02:42:48 PM »

Hi. I know that loudness is very relative thing. And considering that some amps has more aggressive character than others and all the EQ and rooms and cab configurations and speaker sensitivities and its EQ and character and considering that there is nearly unnoticeable loudness difference between 100W and 50W of similar amps trough the very same cab...it's is very hard to say what is loud and what is not. I have a Roland Cube 30X with 10" speaker and power squeeze mode (switches from 30W to 2W) and I think solid-state 2W are pretty much what I need for home practice.

But as Tim Schroeder wrote in the end of his article "Adventures in Amplification: Lineage of a Dumble OD-100WR" for the latest Premier Guitar Magazine: "I will say that amongst all of the Dumble amps (and Dumble inspired clones) that I have spent time with, this definitely takes the cake! It has headroom, power, incredible touch sensitivity where one can go from clean cords to blistering single note runs with the energy of your picking hand."

And thats is exactly what I'm looking for with an amp! This kind of extreme touch sensitivity!

Also...the latest Jeff Beck album Emotions&Commotions (Jeff Beck is my tone&guitar hero) was nearly all recorded with an old Fender Champ original from 50's. Only his strat, cable and this little combo turned all the way up. He said: "But when we got into the overdubs I just ended up with a Champ. Mine is a 1950s model with that brown rag across the front, the tweed, you know? It sounds amazing really, and you don’t need volume. Some people can’t do without lots of volume to get their tone, but I think if you can’t get it without four million watts, something’s wrong. Because a mic doesn’t read volume, it reads tone. You’ve got all the level in the world at your disposal in the console, and the remixing and the rest of it to compensate for lack of power. But the tone is the thing, and that’s something that came from Scotty Moore, who once told me, “Get some better tone and you’re there - volume you don’t need.”" And he continues...: "You can’t believe what you can get out of a little tenor 20-watt amp. I think Billy Gibbons is on that route as well, as he plays though some blown-up little thing now. You have to work in symphony with the amp for what sounds best, and it depends on what you’re playing. If it’s power chords, then you’d probably use a slightly bigger amp, otherwise it’ll shred down into a narrow bandwidth. Most of the time, though, you can get away with a couple of Champs—one clean, one distorted— and use the clean one to get more definition."

So we got one kind of amp which is extremely touch sensitive... And man (Jeff Beck) with great feel who can go from clean cords to blistering single note runs with the energy of your picking hand and turn of his guitars volume and he uses maybe the simplest and very low power rig.

My question is how to put these things together. How to have Overtone extremely sensitive with very low power say from 5 to max 20 watts? Is the attenuator the only choice? Or any other tricks (6V6 substitution, voltage drop MV etc.).? Thanks


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JD0x0
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« Reply #1 on: January 08, 2011, 04:01:56 PM »

IMO the 50 watt can do everything from at home practice to stage gigs. These are master volume amps with separate volumes for the OD, meaning that you can get great tone without cranking it. Although they do sound better pushed. That said even the 50(42.3 watts actually) watt may not have enough headroom at times.

It all depends on your speakers they make a MUCH bigger difference than wattage. Less efficient speakers will be less loud naturally. I use alnico speakers which are both less efficient than ceramics as well as "softer" and less "in your face" I can turn my amp up to full volume ("6" on the master) and sit right in front of the amp comfortably. I should also mention im using KT88 tubes and probably pushing closer to 60 watts.
Less wattage is just going to push the speakers less and youre going to lose bass and low mid response as a result of the less power.

Also its probably worth mentioning that because these amps usually have much more midrange than marshalls and fenders they do tend to stand out in the mix quite a bit, which is one of the reasons I went with alnico speakers.

FWIW the difference between 50 and 100 watts is only 3db while speakers can easily change volume by 10 or more db depending on their sensativity, just to give you an idea.
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boldaslove6789
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« Reply #2 on: January 09, 2011, 07:05:09 AM »

Get a Dumbleator, It will be your newest best friend . Killer tones @ any volume.
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-Greg D. Clark

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212Mavguy
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« Reply #3 on: January 09, 2011, 02:15:21 PM »

For the lower wattage amp thang, I took a lowly silverface Champ and ripped the guts out, built my own turret board for it with top end parts, replaced both trannys, stuck in a vintage CTS squaremag 8 incher,  then lifted the ground from the bass pot as a happy accident, left it that way for some serious ballsy tones like you are talking about. 

+ 1 on the speaker thang.   

Also have a 50 watt HRM, and that thing through either my 2/12 filled with JBL g125's (102db 1 meter 1 watt) gets quite loud with plenty of chean headroom, or for overkill/volume war/outdoor stuff I have a 2/15 filled with JBL g135 (104db 1 watt 1 meter.)  Efficient speakers like that with my little Frank-en-Champ?  I have to turn it down or stage volume is too loud, even with a single 6v6 for 6-7 watts using that particular little monster.  It has a bad case of short man's disease and wants to be a Marshall stack.
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cooler21
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« Reply #4 on: January 09, 2011, 03:30:13 PM »

Thank you all...

JD0x0 - what kind of speakers exactly do you use? Jensens? Which type? And do you think the more output tubes the better sound (with the same circuit/amp type)?

Today I just again realized how big difference can the speaker and cab construction make. Engl amp - through Marshall 4x12 with some lower quality level Celestions - OK sound. Mesa oversized Recto cab with V30s...HUGE sound! Great difference!

boldaslove6789 -  how does the Dumbleator work? Is it some kind of attenuator?

Thanks
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ampkits
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« Reply #5 on: January 09, 2011, 04:31:53 PM »


The Clator is like a Dumbleator.

The loop on the OTS is just an interrupt type, ie totally passive.

The Clator is a unit that adds impedance matching/buffering so that pedals will work with the loop

(Note some pedals will work as is, and most rack units too, with the loop).

Not only that, some coloration (it's not transparent) occurs when the unit is used, mainly in rounding off the highs, and enhancing the mids.

Some use the unit without effects added, just for this effect to the amp's tones.

Furthermore, the level controls on the unit can also be used to further shape the sound / loudness.

Thanks!

nik
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JD0x0
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« Reply #6 on: January 09, 2011, 07:19:03 PM »

Thank you all...

JD0x0 - what kind of speakers exactly do you use? Jensens? Which type? And do you think the more output tubes the better sound (with the same circuit/amp type)?
Thanks

I use two cabs, one 2x12 built by weber loaded w/ weber 12A125 (Jense P12Q clone) and a custom weber alnico 1 3/4'' voice coil, 55hz cone, large harp dustcap, basicly an Alnico version of the Celestion G12-65 with a deeper bass.

The other cabinet is a "leslie" rotating speaker cab loaded with a weber 10'' Michigan which is an Alnico version of what a 10'' JBL speaker would be.


As to the output tubes, it's pretty much subjective but in my opinion more output tubes(higher wattage) sounds better because of the added bass response and clean headroom. With the 100 watt (4 output tubes) you could always get a "half power" switch which will basicly deactivate the outer tubes and reduce the wattage.
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boldaslove6789
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« Reply #7 on: January 09, 2011, 10:15:35 PM »


The Clator is like a Dumbleator.

The loop on the OTS is just an interrupt type, ie totally passive.

The Clator is a unit that adds impedance matching/buffering so that pedals will work with the loop

(Note some pedals will work as is, and most rack units too, with the loop).

Not only that, some coloration (it's not transparent) occurs when the unit is used, mainly in rounding off the highs, and enhancing the mids.

Some use the unit without effects added, just for this effect to the amp's tones.

Furthermore, the level controls on the unit can also be used to further shape the sound / loudness.

Thanks!

nik

To elaborate:

The Dumbleator (Or C-lator) becomes your overall Master Volume when in the Loop. You can turn the Masters up on the amp  and then be able to turn down the Overall volume to your needs whether low or high, good sounds come @ any Volume.
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-Greg D. Clark

Stop searching for tone, INVENT IT!

http://www.funkymunkpedals.com/
Pedals That Speak!

 http://www.youtube.com/GDClarkProject
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