I have received a lot of help from this forum.  After much pain and heartache (as well as some stupid mistakes), my OTS is up and running on the clean channel.  However the overdrive squeals in a really bad way and when the OD trim gets turned up it gets worse...  

Another forum member thought it would be appropriate to start a new thread and post pictures of the guts so that responses could be easily found for the next guy who runs into this problem.

This is my first amp build, as you will see in the pictures.

Thanks in advance for all your help!!!  

I agree. It may be tough, but a complete re wire may be in order. also check all your solder joints as well


Gregg

I don't know if this helps, but the signal is fine when I switch to od when the od trim or levels are very low. As I turn up Overdrive level it starts to squeal very high pitch.  Independently If I turn up the trim it is loud hum, ala motor boat.  Is there a voltage to check? Clean is very nice, and I can get great crunch with manipulating the channel.

I recorded my amp to show you guys what is happening.

Also I rewired half the amp, routed every coaxial and most wires on the side of the pots.

The good: clean is awesome, and loud, master volume works, deep switch gets me a cool crunch that is responsive to the volume control.

The bad: no tone controls working, overdrive channel sounds terrible or buzzes/squeals.

I am starting to wonder if I have a bad relay or a damaged component, like my switch?

I'll post v2 pics in a minute....

Todd, the footswitch works, lights and everything. I understand the PAB ( I had the relay in their backwards) finally.
I am pretty confident that my main problem is some place isolated in the Overdrive Channel, but i have been staring at it so long, i probably missed something.

Here are the pictures of my attempt to clean up the wiring (thanks gregg/sduck) - especially the coax and spacing on v1, v2 and the pots on front.  I tried to re-solder a lot of stuff.

I tried just jumping the OD trim and it didn't do anything to alter the crazy noise.  I rewired and dressed the coax from the relay pcb....  Should i jump something else to try an isolate where my problem is?  How do you guys debug these things?

Running out of options, but I am obviously learning a lot.  I am going to gig this thing outdoors this weekend sitting on top of my blues deville combo.  Burn her in.   I will only use the clean channel (like I do with my fender).  If it fails, I will just plug the deville in.  I would sure like to get this overdrive channel figured out.  Maybe I should have started with an easier maiden voyage in amp building - I almost went Dizzy30 instead of this...

OK, all my tone knobs work now. I scraped the chassis where the pots are, I tapped and moved wires with a chop stick (ears are ringing still) to no avail.  Pin 7 and are not touching. 

Here are my preamp voltages - where is says Jeff, thats me.
I put NIK in here for reference (his is first)

My OD voltage is wacky?

Tube   Type           Pin1      Pin3                  Pin6   Pin7   Pin8
                           
V1   NIK        191      1.7         200      1.6
   Jeff           140      1.5         141      1.4
V2   NIK        200      1.7         201      1.7
   Jeff           175      1.8         191      1.7
   Jeff OD   188      1.9         300   -8.3   56

V3   NIK       298      56         289      56
            Jeff       282      28         267      56

I guess my next step is to try and see if anything is touching on the backsides of the boards? 

Your wiring is the possible problem of the oscillations, they are on various points crossing other wires or sitting on them where they shouldn't. Not just 1 wire; all over.

The voltages; I couldn't see the colours of your dropping string correct; maybe post a better pic of that. However the last dropping string resistor; you have a 22k instead of a 2k2!

Follow the B+ from the rectifier and you will see a number of resistors in series which create the correct plate voltages for each tube. Each dropping string resistor creates a node, usually labeled B+1, B+2 etc. The big caps simply smooth out the AC ripple and for the purposes of testing can be ignored. Its easier to see how this is arranged if you look at a schematic rather than a layout. If you get one of these wrong then you will be dropping the voltage too much or too little and the tube will not function as designed. If you get one wrong early on it has an effect on all the nodes down the string.