Usually ...

There is a footswitch jack on any rackmount units, to bypass the effect.

If the rackmount unit doens'nt come with a footswitch, you should be able to build one for cheap. Depending on how complex the switching is on the unit of course.

If not footswitches are available to buy for most rackmount units (like a lexicon, TC Electronics, etc)...

This is how it will work :
 
   1.) Match your D-lator's S&R w/your effects loop on your amp
   2.) Put your effects(of choice) in the S&R of the D-Lator
   3.) Then you should be able to midi switch the effects bypass using the footswitch output on your rack unit.

Your Line6 DD-4 should work fine with the D-lator but, I recommend TC Electronic M350" if your dough is on the low then look for deals on any old Lexicon stuff -Try Ebay or Craigslist if your lucky Above all you need to look for a rack mount unit that can use a 100% wet signal. I am a reverb addict too! 

 For cabs I use and recommend any 2x12 oval ported cab...Some examples (if your not familiar) are AVATAR(for around $150-$200), Thiele (on eBay unfinished for #$100-$120), Two Rock makes a great cab loaded with W.G.S G1265 (Celestion G-12-65 clone) for about $400-$500 used. 

  Here's a list of speakers I have gathered in my experience-

1.) EvM-12-L (This is the most popular as Dumble himself used them!!!)
2.) Celestion G-12-65 (WGS are good clones)
3.) Emminence Tonker, Swamp Thing, ETC.
4.) Scumbacks
5.) Fane (good efficient speaker with 100+ DB rating)
6.) Early Altec Lansing (JBL) -Are good for the 1st gen. NON-HRM based amps.

 
Maybe someone else could add to the ones I forgot 

When it comes to speakers really everyone has their own preference !


If you have any other questions I will do my best to help!

IMHO, I'd say get a regular OTS, especially if you're using a strat. I found the HRM a bit to trebly even for humbuckers.

Thats a useful one to know. Could you make it easy for us to find again by posting this mod in the Tweaked layout thread since that is a sticky and I for one will be able to find it again if I buy an HRM.

I wish I could hear some clips of the OTS that were just on the clean side.  Both with a Strat and humbuckers.

I can only recommend TRY one before you buy , because it is not a super amp or a holy grail or buy a zendrive witch give the same results with any good tube-amp!!!
If you follow this forum you see that a lott of people are searching for a better sound out of these amps
by tweaking,replace little parts ect. ect.
It is a nice,old skool amp,witch needs some effects to sound nice,so try one first.

 The most important thing is to give the amp 3-5 months to break,same with speakers.
You really have to change your whole way of thought process when it comes to this amp, The sound is very detailed and articulate OD. You may even think it sounds bad at first until you figure out all the useful tone/feeling this amp has to offer.

I wouldn't recommend having to try this amp before you buy it. The OTS is a great amp that can be tweaked to taste after break-in from you or an educated builder. Stick with one speaker choice after break-in for a few weeks so you can get the feel for the amp, then after all is said and done you will be stoked!! 

   Just got notification from Nik that my OtS HRM and CLator are on the way. 

I have Nik's Biasing guide, but I have never biased an amp before in my life.  I'd like to try to do it myself, but if you guys don't think it's a good idea, I'll take it to a professional.

Couple of questions - where are the bias points for this amp?  The amp is obviously not in front of me yet, but I'd like to get an idea so I can know where to look.

Are there pots for each tube, or do I set one pot to 70? 

Any tips on biasing would be greatly appreciated.