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Author Topic: My OT build  (Read 33416 times)
hywelg
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« Reply #15 on: April 28, 2008, 01:06:24 PM »

Brilliant, thanks. I think I'm going to modify my template to increase the cutout width  since the TR and D'Lite seem to be narrower and cover the pre-amp volume knob. I'll probably move the chassis forward 5mm aswell. Any idea how wide the aluminium strip is it looks like ¾-1" to me? (mixed units again, sorry) Whats the overall depth of your cabinet ?

I'm not trying to copy a Dumble exactly, just want to get it to look similar.

« Last Edit: April 28, 2008, 10:54:17 PM by hywelg » Logged
ic-racer
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« Reply #16 on: April 28, 2008, 02:14:44 PM »

I was not sure of  the measurements on the original, but I used 1/8 inch by 3/4 inch aluminum with counter sunk screws for mine and it looks very close. I see what you mean about the cutout, my cabinet does not have it correct. I don't have a wood working area, so I just did some mods to Nik's Ceriatone cabinet.




Here is a closeup of a real Dumble for comparison:




« Last Edit: June 04, 2008, 09:44:08 PM by ic-racer » Logged
ChrisL
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« Reply #17 on: April 28, 2008, 03:16:43 PM »

I was looking at the Two-Rock and trying to gauge the set back dimension.

http://two-rock.com/photos/cl/cl1.jpg looks like 25mm 'ish

and the D'Lite

http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/yhst-89931406377916_1998_4061762 which looks nearer to 30-32mm to me.

I think the 18-20mm set back you use will only work without the cutout. My cutout is 20mm deep.

 I was also constrained a little by the fact that I already had birch ply in 268mm width so I placed the OTS equidistant from front and back. Maybe it was a little too wide at 268mm. Its not too late to move it all forward.

Did you make the cabs? What glue did you use for that blonde. The blonde I can get seems very thick and rubbery and whilst I've used both contact adhesive and PVA in the past I'd rather use PVA anyday, but I'm aware that some stuff it won't stick well enough. I think its to do with the cloth backing. Fender Black seems a lot thinner and is fine with PVA.


Yes, I make all my cabs.  I use a spray PVA that I get here in Japan.  It works well and only requires a few minutes to gas off but you only get one shot at laying it down so.... no mistakes.


Nice medley of D pics IC. Thanks.
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hywelg
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« Reply #18 on: April 28, 2008, 05:27:21 PM »

Yes, I make all my cabs.  I use a spray PVA that I get here in Japan.  It works well and only requires a few minutes to gas off but you only get one shot at laying it down so.... no mistakes.

I use water based PVA , mostly, its very cheap since its used in the building trade a lot, approx $30 for 5litres. Being water based you've plenty of time to adjust allowing you to cover a cab, no matter how big, in one piece. I do prime the wood first with a diluted version of the same glue (5:1 dilution) If it dries off in parts you can just wet it with more glue. I use a small decorators roller to apply it to the material. I have had problems however with some material, which had a polypropylene backing and it didn't stick too well with PVA. If I use that again I think it will have to be a thixotropic contact adhesive.
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fred
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« Reply #19 on: April 28, 2008, 07:09:00 PM »


i haven't thought about how i will make the cab yet. I think i will make it from red fake suade. It will probably look real tacky but at least it will be individual.  How do you cover an amp?
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hywelg
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« Reply #20 on: April 28, 2008, 10:53:12 PM »

Apparently real suede is not that expensive and you can use PVA to glue it on. I was talking to Jeff Lewis of Matamp  www.matamp.co.uk on a visit a few months back and he said told me about the leather and suede, though aparently its not that durable, especially suede, tolex type hard vinyl is much more durable.

It does take some practice to get the corner mitres correct so I'd practice on some scrap first. The thing about hard vinyl is that you can move it about quite a bit by warming it with a hot air (paint stripper type ) gun, when it cools its will pretty much stay put. The more stretchy stuff won't stay put after it cools, it keeps pulling apart. There are lots of people on t'internet selling 'tolex' that isn't and I don't yet know how you tell, but if when cold you can stretch it much its going to be difficult to work with. Marshall stuff is pretty reliable or so it seems. I also had some black from here http://www.ampcomponents.co.uk/hardware.html which was fine but the red wasn't, I had to send it back!.

I've also had some samples from http://www.allparts.uk.com/coverings-tweed-tolex-c-277_297_446_455.html?p=shop and I intend getting some Fender Blonde, but I'm a bit wary because it does seem quite thick, but it is cheap enough, probably as cheap as anywhere in the UK.
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johnnymac
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« Reply #21 on: May 01, 2008, 04:31:45 AM »

Looks really good. What are those black cables? I built one from scratch a few months ago and now I  think I'm going to have to add reverb. I just can't live without it. 

John
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hywelg
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« Reply #22 on: May 01, 2008, 07:55:30 AM »

The black cables are the shielded cables from the original trimmer pot (FET and O/D) positions to their new locations on the rear panel.

I'm also thinking about reverb and am interested in a TC G Sharp since i can also then get rid of my chorus pedal off my board (its a Boss and none too clever) , but I'm not sure about mounting it in the front of the cab like eriwebnerr has done , see this thread.

http://ceriatoneforum.com/index.php?topic=330 . I'm trying to think of a way to hide it

I'm also trying to find out more about the G Sharp, until it came up on here I knew nothing about rack mount effects and I've always steered clear of multi-effects units since previous experience has shown them to be tone suckers, admittedly I'm talking of the likes of Zoom, Korg etc, that go in before the amp.
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AdrianJ
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« Reply #23 on: May 02, 2008, 10:35:53 AM »

Hi. Well done on your build.

Considering having a go at building one myself, save time and money against waiting for a complete amp from Nik.

Could you tell me what documentation comes with the amp kit?

Also, what is involved in building from kit form?
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hywelg
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« Reply #24 on: May 02, 2008, 01:45:57 PM »

Replied in other thread. You will get the kit quicker than a built amp, but please don't do it to save money!! It'd be better to go to work for an extra 20hours and pay Nik! You will get a lot of pride from doing it though AND you won't be daunted to try out some of the many mods that have been talked about here , afterwards.

The documentation is limited, though there is a parts/packing list which helps to identify stuff based on quantities in the pack, but if I did it again I'd go through it and either identify every item by codes written on them or measure their values with a meter (resistors and capacitors if your meter will do that). In conjunction with the layout its not difficult to determine whats what if you approach it logically (eg. the pot values and whether they are audio or linear).

Best of luck (actually no don't rely on luck!!!)

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AdrianJ
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« Reply #25 on: May 02, 2008, 02:32:36 PM »

hywelg, have to ask, where in the country are you?

I'm guessing from your Matamp comment that you're from the UK...am I right?

I ask because I'd love to be able to try out an Overtone before ordering...
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hywelg
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« Reply #26 on: May 02, 2008, 06:25:32 PM »

Yes I'm in the Uk, Nottingham if thats any use to you. The amp is finished, but the cab isn't yet. I'm hoping to get it done over the weekend, Ive' got all the parts so with the extra day off on Monday it should get done. You're welcome to give it a go if you're close.

Cheers

Hywel Harris
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hywelg
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« Reply #27 on: May 10, 2008, 01:53:58 PM »

Finished the cab now. I'm well chuffed with it.


* OTS-head04.jpg (178.85 KB, 900x675 - viewed 720 times.)

* OTS-head02.jpg (180.34 KB, 900x597 - viewed 693 times.)

* OTS-head03.jpg (305.54 KB, 900x1043 - viewed 690 times.)
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Luithien
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« Reply #28 on: May 10, 2008, 02:56:09 PM »

Beautiful job!  Cheesy

JT
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Steven_nl
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« Reply #29 on: May 10, 2008, 03:09:14 PM »

yeah that realy lloks nice.
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