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| | |-+  I could use a little more help
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Author Topic: I could use a little more help  (Read 23294 times)
erwin_ve
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« Reply #30 on: September 01, 2009, 07:35:19 AM »

What about that 22uF 450V electrolytic cap on the wall near the first tube - shouldn't that be the other way around?

Compare it to this photo from the Ceriatone web site:

http://www.ceriatone.com/images/completeAmpsPic/CTOvertone/board/Leftend2B.jpg

Phil

Bingo! I bet that is a major problem and I don't have to look at your link I see it in the wire diagram.  Huh?  Shocked  Angry Embarrassed  Embarrassed  Embarrassed I can't believe I missed that. I'm going to turn that around and I'll post the results. Thanks.

You are lucky that cap didn't explode!
« Last Edit: September 01, 2009, 07:36:51 AM by erwin_ve » Logged
bluesfendermanblues
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« Reply #31 on: September 01, 2009, 11:18:37 AM »

Djroge1,

You are close to getting the amp to work now.

When it does, you might want to move the yellow (cathode) and red (plate) wires close to each other. This has a major impact on the notes 'blooming' when you play. Kind of a compressor effect that is part of the signature sound of the Dumble amps.

Looking forward to you getting some sounds thorough!  Smiley
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erwin_ve
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« Reply #32 on: September 01, 2009, 11:23:56 AM »

. I hear a hum and I get a crackle when measuring V3.
The crackle is normal when measuring your PI(V3). Probably your power amp does work.
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bluesfendermanblues
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« Reply #33 on: September 01, 2009, 11:48:25 AM »

I guess you mean preamp is not working.

If the power amp is not working, why would djroge1 beable to hear hummmm  Huh?
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erwin_ve
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« Reply #34 on: September 01, 2009, 01:06:31 PM »

I guess you mean preamp is not working.

If the power amp is not working, why would djroge1 beable to hear hummmm  Huh?
Can't they read in Denmark? Grin
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René F
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« Reply #35 on: September 01, 2009, 01:35:19 PM »

Some of us... Smiley

As Erwin said if he can hear crackle then there must be some output through the poweramp... Voltage readings also look fine at the 6L6 tubes
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djroge1
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« Reply #36 on: September 01, 2009, 01:52:34 PM »

I took a quick reading of those previous 10 points and here they are in order - I didn't wait for the amp to really warm up because I'm on my way out the door for work.

455
454
429
318
319
312
174
188
174
191
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bluesfendermanblues
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« Reply #37 on: September 01, 2009, 03:29:13 PM »

I guess you mean preamp is not working.

If the power amp is not working, why would djroge1 beable to hear hummmm  Huh?
Can't they read in Denmark? Grin


Embarrassed ups!  Cool
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hywelg
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« Reply #38 on: September 01, 2009, 06:34:47 PM »

You should now be getting some sound out of it, the voltages are in the right region, though a little low on V1 and V2, though I wouldn't worry about that for now.

Try pluging a lead in to the Power Amp IN socket just to see if the poweramp section is working properly (touch the tip of the other end of the lead). If you do then plug in normally and if you get nothing from either clean or OD then check and re-check your wiring  from input jack up to V3 pin 2 and 7. This is the point at which its helpful to have both the schematic and the layout to guide you whilst checking, but you can do this with just the layout checking every joint that you have made whilst marking them off with a highlighter pen. Any join that looks suspect re-do it.

You have wired your input jacks the right way haven't you?? Wink Have you tried the FET input?
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djroge1
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« Reply #39 on: September 01, 2009, 07:35:36 PM »

I do the power amp In test and recheck my wiring tonight when I get home.

I already checked for continuity from input to V1 pin one and it looks good for both input and FET input. I plugged in a cable and read it from cable to pin one.
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René F
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« Reply #40 on: September 01, 2009, 07:41:05 PM »

I do the power amp In test and recheck my wiring tonight when I get home.

I already checked for continuity from input to V1 pin one and it looks good for both input and FET input. I plugged in a cable and read it from cable to pin one.

If you are testing the FET-input for signal through the amp, then remember to adjust the FET trimmer (on the small board mounted on the side of the chassis). If its turned all the way down, you won't get any signal through the FET input
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bluesfendermanblues
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« Reply #41 on: September 01, 2009, 08:14:30 PM »

I do the power amp In test and recheck my wiring tonight when I get home.

I already checked for continuity from input to V1 pin one and it looks good for both input and FET input. I plugged in a cable and read it from cable to pin one.

Pin one?? you mean pin 2, right?
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djroge1
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« Reply #42 on: September 01, 2009, 08:47:02 PM »

Ooops yes pin 2.


I do the power amp In test and recheck my wiring tonight when I get home.

I already checked for continuity from input to V1 pin one and it looks good for both input and FET input. I plugged in a cable and read it from cable to pin one.

Pin one?? you mean pin 2, right?
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djroge1
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« Reply #43 on: September 02, 2009, 12:48:24 AM »

I plugged a cord into the Power Amp In and it appears to be working. Now, I'm going to re-check all of my work up to the points you suggest.


You should now be getting some sound out of it, the voltages are in the right region, though a little low on V1 and V2, though I wouldn't worry about that for now.

Try pluging a lead in to the Power Amp IN socket just to see if the poweramp section is working properly (touch the tip of the other end of the lead). If you do then plug in normally and if you get nothing from either clean or OD then check and re-check your wiring  from input jack up to V3 pin 2 and 7. This is the point at which its helpful to have both the schematic and the layout to guide you whilst checking, but you can do this with just the layout checking every joint that you have made whilst marking them off with a highlighter pen. Any join that looks suspect re-do it.

You have wired your input jacks the right way haven't you?? Wink Have you tried the FET input?
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Corinthian
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« Reply #44 on: September 07, 2009, 10:02:26 AM »

Djroge1,

...you might want to move the yellow (cathode) and red (plate) wires close to each other. This has a major impact on the notes 'blooming' when you play. Kind of a compressor effect that is part of the signature sound of the Dumble amps.


This is interesting. Is this something that Nik does in the ready assembled amps?

Looking on the layout, there are two red wired and two yellow lines to V1 and V1. Would you mind marking on the layout which ones should be moved close together? If it is not standard I'd like to do this to mine when it arrives.

Thank you

C~
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