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| | |-+  I'm building a D-lator...		 « previous next »
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Author Topic: I'm building a D-lator...  (Read 16117 times)
erwin_ve
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« Reply #15 on: January 02, 2010, 09:12:23 PM »
And what does your baby sound like?
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mcinku
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« Reply #16 on: January 02, 2010, 09:40:41 PM »
I think it still needs some work. Currently I'm using Tung-Sol reissue tube, it's the only tube I had available... I must try some other tubes to see how they do. Which one are you using?

Anyway, I made these clips...
Bluesmaster HRM
http://www.jam-world.de/Musik/Mman/loop_test/BM_NoLoop.mp3
http://www.jam-world.de/Musik/Mman/loop_test/BM_Klein.mp3
http://www.jam-world.de/Musik/Mman/loop_test/BM_DLator.mp3
Skyline nonHRM
http://www.jam-world.de/Musik/Mman/loop_test/OTS_NoLoop.mp3
http://www.jam-world.de/Musik/Mman/loop_test/OTS_Klein.mp3
http://www.jam-world.de/Musik/Mman/loop_test/OTS_DLator.mp3
BTW the background noise is my RC2 looper.
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erwin_ve
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« Reply #17 on: January 02, 2010, 09:52:04 PM »
Quote from: mcinku on January 02, 2010, 09:40:41 PM
I think it still needs some work. Currently I'm using Tung-Sol reissue tube, it's the only tube I had available... I must try some other tubes to see how they do. Which one are you using?


I used a variety of tubes over time. Tung sol, JJ and currently an old 60-ies Sylvania.

The Sylvania is the best so far. JJ are good too, for me.

Have you turned up your recover input knob all the way? A bright cap(47 pF or bigger) on the amp's master does help to get the highs back without fuzzing the lead sound.
Btw. Great tune you're playing, I really like it.
« Last Edit: January 02, 2010, 10:02:15 PM by erwin_ve » Logged
mcinku
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« Reply #18 on: January 03, 2010, 08:23:57 AM »
Quote from: erwin_ve on January 02, 2010, 09:52:04 PM
I used a variety of tubes over time. Tung sol, JJ and currently an old 60-ies Sylvania.

The Sylvania is the best so far. JJ are good too, for me.

Have you turned up your recover input knob all the way? A bright cap(47 pF or bigger) on the amp's master does help to get the highs back without fuzzing the lead sound.
Btw. Great tune you're playing, I really like it.

When I recorded this, I had recover input/output knobs at 1 o'clock and drive at 4 o'clock. I guess I still need to learn how to use this device correctly.
My OTS has 15p on master and my Bluesmaster has 68p in there.

 Wink
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Steven_nl
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« Reply #19 on: January 03, 2010, 10:39:04 AM »


 A bright cap(47 pF or bigger) on the amp's master does help to get the highs back without fuzzing the lead sound.

[/quote]

Would that be an idea for me as well?
my lay out is this
http://home.kpn.nl/s.scholten17/ots-v2.jpg
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erwin_ve
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« Reply #20 on: January 03, 2010, 05:36:32 PM »
Quote from: Steven_nl on January 03, 2010, 10:39:04 AM


 A bright cap(47 pF or bigger) on the amp's master does help to get the highs back without fuzzing the lead sound.


Would that be an idea for me as well?
my lay out is this
http://home.kpn.nl/s.scholten17/ots-v2.jpg
[/quote]

Hi Steven,

You didn't like a bigger bright cap, it was too bright for your likings.
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Steven_nl
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« Reply #21 on: January 04, 2010, 08:13:37 AM »
Quote from: erwin_ve on January 03, 2010, 05:36:32 PM
Quote from: Steven_nl on January 03, 2010, 10:39:04 AM


 A bright cap(47 pF or bigger) on the amp's master does help to get the highs back without fuzzing the lead sound.


Would that be an idea for me as well?
my lay out is this
http://home.kpn.nl/s.scholten17/ots-v2.jpg

Hi Steven,

You didn't like a bigger bright cap, it was too bright for your likings.

[/quote]


 Embarrassed this wil,l go in the top 10 of stupid questions. Sorry about that Erwin. To much champagne probably.
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mcinku
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« Reply #22 on: January 04, 2010, 08:47:14 AM »
Perhaps tuning the bright cap within the D-Lator is a better option. This way you keep your amp intact, so if you decide to play it with nothing in the loop, it will still sound good.
It's a compromise but to me still sounds better than modding the amp.
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bluesfendermanblues
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« Reply #23 on: January 04, 2010, 09:04:09 AM »
Or you could change the 1M master vol pot to a pot with push/pull swich.

Put the bright cap on the switch and when you use the Dlator, you pull the master pot to engage the bright cap and restore some of the lost top end.

This way your amp will look stock.
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Respect for the big guy's work....we're at this part of the forum because of HAD's amps.
mcinku
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« Reply #24 on: January 04, 2010, 09:19:36 AM »
Good idea.
 Wink
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erwin_ve
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« Reply #25 on: January 04, 2010, 11:48:26 AM »
Quote from: bluesfendermanblues on January 04, 2010, 09:04:09 AM
Or you could change the 1M master vol pot to a pot with push/pull swich.

Put the bright cap on the switch and when you use the Dlator, you pull the master pot to engage the bright cap and restore some of the lost top end.

This way your amp will look stock.



+1 !
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