Ceriatone Forum

Thanks to Erwin (he pushed me over the edge  ;)), I decided to build this thing.

Let me tell you, sourcing parts here in EU is real pain in the a** and at the end, I was not even able to get everything I wanted.
At least now I know how easy is to order a kit from Nik.
...anyway, I have what I have and now the fun part starts...  ;D

My first eyelett board build ever  ;)

This is where I am at the moment...

Check out those orange drop caps  :o  :o
I think I'm safe... voltage wise  ;D

Hi Mcinku,

Looking good! What parts ended up different?

Well obviously the plate resistor is not RN65D type and caps are not Sprague PS but 716 (except 0.47uF, that one is 225P).
I also couldn't find 1K3 cathode resistor, I used 1K4 instead.
  :P

Nothing much is going on, I'm waiting for this big sticker which I design for my faceplate... nothing fancy but still takes time.  ;)

All I managed to do so far is this...

Things are slowly moving along...

Hi Mcinku, Nice design....have you considered trying parallel operation??

http://ceriatoneforum.com/index.php?topic=1466.0

So far I didn't, I'll check your schematics, thanks.
 ;)

Almost there...  ;)

Just the signal wires missing... I ran out of solder  :-[

OK I'm done... I think  ???

I tried it and it works but my voltages look strange...  ???

Erwin, what are your voltages?

These are mine...

I found out what was the reason for my strange voltage...

...I somehow used 820K instead of 820 dropping string resistor. Now I need to find it somewhere  >:( ... I called my tech and he has only 1K available... I will take it, I just can't wait to hear this thing sing.  :)

I fixed it... my voltages looks much better now...
311V and 255V

I had to improvise a little  ;)

Congrats Mcinku! Looks very good. I love your front and backplate design; a sticker?

Yes, it's a sticker.
 ;)

And what does your baby sound like?

I think it still needs some work. Currently I'm using Tung-Sol reissue tube, it's the only tube I had available... I must try some other tubes to see how they do. Which one are you using?

Anyway, I made these clips...
Bluesmaster HRM
http://www.jam-world.de/Musik/Mman/loop_test/BM_NoLoop.mp3 (http://www.jam-world.de/Musik/Mman/loop_test/BM_NoLoop.mp3)
http://www.jam-world.de/Musik/Mman/loop_test/BM_Klein.mp3 (http://www.jam-world.de/Musik/Mman/loop_test/BM_Klein.mp3)
http://www.jam-world.de/Musik/Mman/loop_test/BM_DLator.mp3 (http://www.jam-world.de/Musik/Mman/loop_test/BM_DLator.mp3)
Skyline nonHRM
http://www.jam-world.de/Musik/Mman/loop_test/OTS_NoLoop.mp3 (http://www.jam-world.de/Musik/Mman/loop_test/OTS_NoLoop.mp3)
http://www.jam-world.de/Musik/Mman/loop_test/OTS_Klein.mp3 (http://www.jam-world.de/Musik/Mman/loop_test/OTS_Klein.mp3)
http://www.jam-world.de/Musik/Mman/loop_test/OTS_DLator.mp3 (http://www.jam-world.de/Musik/Mman/loop_test/OTS_DLator.mp3)
BTW the background noise is my RC2 looper.

I used a variety of tubes over time. Tung sol, JJ and currently an old 60-ies Sylvania.

The Sylvania is the best so far. JJ are good too, for me.

Have you turned up your recover input knob all the way? A bright cap(47 pF or bigger) on the amp's master does help to get the highs back without fuzzing the lead sound.
Btw. Great tune you're playing, I really like it.

When I recorded this, I had recover input/output knobs at 1 o'clock and drive at 4 o'clock. I guess I still need to learn how to use this device correctly.
My OTS has 15p on master and my Bluesmaster has 68p in there.

 ;)

 A bright cap(47 pF or bigger) on the amp's master does help to get the highs back without fuzzing the lead sound.

[/quote]

Would that be an idea for me as well?
my lay out is this
http://home.kpn.nl/s.scholten17/ots-v2.jpg

Would that be an idea for me as well?
my lay out is this
http://home.kpn.nl/s.scholten17/ots-v2.jpg
[/quote]

Hi Steven,

You didn't like a bigger bright cap, it was too bright for your likings.

Hi Steven,

You didn't like a bigger bright cap, it was too bright for your likings.

[/quote]


 :-[ this wil,l go in the top 10 of stupid questions. Sorry about that Erwin. To much champagne probably.

Perhaps tuning the bright cap within the D-Lator is a better option. This way you keep your amp intact, so if you decide to play it with nothing in the loop, it will still sound good.
It's a compromise but to me still sounds better than modding the amp.

Or you could change the 1M master vol pot to a pot with push/pull swich.

Put the bright cap on the switch and when you use the Dlator, you pull the master pot to engage the bright cap and restore some of the lost top end.

This way your amp will look stock.

Good idea.
 ;)

+1 !