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Author Topic: difference overtone and overtone special  (Read 9191 times)
hans
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« on: April 17, 2009, 09:13:55 PM »
what is the difference between these two?
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roadapple
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« Reply #1 on: April 19, 2009, 02:20:30 AM »
This is basically what Nik told me when I was trying to decide which to get (The OTS or the OTS S&M).

The OTS S&M is "wild" compared to the OTS. It has more sustain/gain and feeds back easier than the OTS.

I've only heard them, haven't played mine yet (it's on order) but I ordered the S&M for the extra sustain and feedback.

He also said the clean channel was the same in both.

Hope so!
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Nanofree
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« Reply #2 on: March 07, 2010, 03:05:23 AM »
Quote from: roadapple on April 19, 2009, 02:20:30 AM
This is basically what Nik told me when I was trying to decide which to get (The OTS or the OTS S&M).

The OTS S&M is "wild" compared to the OTS. It has more sustain/gain and feeds back easier than the OTS.

I've only heard them, haven't played mine yet (it's on order) but I ordered the S&M for the extra sustain and feedback.

He also said the clean channel was the same in both.

Hope so!


Hi roadapple, thanks for your post.
You surely got your OTS S&M since April 09  !
What is your opinion now about sustain and feedback .
Had you chance to compare with OTS non S&M ?
Thanks !
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C'est décidé, dans ma prochaine vie je veux être un musicien, et dans la suivante : un génie. Et si le Bon Vieux me fait une fleur, il me fera les 2 en même temps....
JD0x0
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« Reply #3 on: March 07, 2010, 04:52:52 AM »
S&M is much brighter on the OD and sounds more agressive. The normal OTS was modded to sound thicker and warmer, it's also supposed to be better for switching "on the go" meaning that it's much more balanced between the OD and clean. For example, the S&M might be to muddy on the clean channel so you increase the treble, this will also make the OD channel brighter and it could become harsh.

I have an OTS and even though it has the mods to warm the OD channel up i had to add a few mods to thicken it up a bit more.
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JD0x0
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« Reply #4 on: March 07, 2010, 07:24:34 PM »
parrallel a 300pf(or similar value) ceramic cap across with the v2b snubber. This will take some high end of the OD. You could raise the value of both snubbers but i prefer raising the v2b because IMO it gives a more dumbly tone. I also changed the choke to a fender blackface twin choke. It made a very small difference and it's only noticable at higher volumes, but it seems to tighten up the bass slightly, 6L6's sound very loose to me
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JD0x0
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« Reply #5 on: March 07, 2010, 08:33:48 PM »
Quote from: ToneQuest on March 07, 2010, 07:50:14 PM
I'm not very technically inclined, so apologies for my dumb question.

I assume you refer to the two ceramic caps on the V2 OD tube, the S&M has 270pf and the OTS has 330pf, right? Where is v2b and how would I parallel a 300pf cap across it? Is there possibly a layout for this mod somewhere?

the v2B is one of the caps you mentioned. The V2b is the one closer to the powertubes and PI. To parrallel the cap just wire a second cap exactly like the 270pF (but leave the 270 there) you now have two caps in parrallel which will increase the total capatiance. (add the value of the 2 caps for the total value, you want something close to 600pF but the exact value is not too critical)
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JD0x0
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« Reply #6 on: March 07, 2010, 08:42:17 PM »
here a mod sheet i did in paint which is why it looks corny Undecided
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ODME
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« Reply #7 on: March 07, 2010, 09:41:19 PM »
Quote from: ToneQuest on March 07, 2010, 07:50:14 PM
I'm not very technically inclined, so apologies for my dumb question.

I assume you refer to the two ceramic caps on the V2 OD tube, the S&M has 270pf and the OTS has 330pf, right? Where is v2b and how would I parallel a 300pf cap across it? Is there possibly a layout for this mod somewhere?

This is why I just do not understand why everyone posts the LAYOUT and not the schematic; nor why Nik doesn't include schematics.

With just a layout, one has to not only envision what each part is about but which parts are different. But with a schematic the part's function is evident and it's much easier to follow the circuit flow.

Having both together can be very useful - especially when trying to build a board. But if only one is available to understand the circuit and any modifications, after something is built, the schematic seems the most explanatory - otherwise I'm sure layouts would have been the diagrams supplied with all electronic devices for the past 90 years rather than schematics.

I would have taken a hammer to my HRM long ago if not for having a schematic.
« Last Edit: March 07, 2010, 10:54:59 PM by ODME » Logged
roadapple
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« Reply #8 on: March 09, 2010, 09:53:50 PM »
After owning the OTS S&M for many months, I'm selling it to get a regular OTS... The S&M is fine, but has far too much gain, even when dialed down... plus it's harsh on the OD side compared to the clean side.

I own an OTS combo which is wonderful, but I need a head to take to gigs on when flying.

If you're not sure if you need the S&M's distortion, ask yourself one question.. .Am I a metal head or death metal player?  If not, the OTS has more than enough distortion and is thicker sounding.
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hywelg
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« Reply #9 on: March 10, 2010, 05:42:17 PM »
Quote from: roadapple on March 09, 2010, 09:53:50 PM
After owning the OTS S&M for many months, I'm selling it to get a regular OTS

Thats a bit drastic!. Just change the few components that are different.
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