Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?
November 25, 2024, 01:17:57 AM
Home Help Search Login Register
News: Ceriatone Forums are up and running!!!
 
Guests please register
Note: If you want to help you can donate to keep the forums alive.



Do you want to advertise on this forum ? Send me a private message.



Amplified Parts
+  Ceriatone Forum
|-+  Ceriatone
| |-+  Overtone
| | |-+  couple of questions
« previous next »
Pages: [1] 2 Go Down Print
Author Topic: couple of questions  (Read 14073 times)
fred
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 57


View Profile
« on: April 16, 2008, 06:17:31 PM »

heyho, i am currently putting all the bits in place and i was wondering if the voltage regulator needs to be bolted down to the chassis via the metal square bit the sticks out of it.

Also, is the bus bar soldered to the chassis directly or should i use a wire and send it to a seperate lug?

thanks in advance!
Logged
hywelg
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 896


View Profile
« Reply #1 on: April 16, 2008, 06:34:56 PM »

Yes the voltage regulator is bolted through that hole.

The brass busbar is only connected to the pot terminals as shown, with one wire coming down to an earth lug by the volume pot. The soldered wire hold it in place in mid air. I guess this is to ensure that all circuit grounding goes in the correct place to reduce the possibility of noise.

Logged
fred
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 57


View Profile
« Reply #2 on: April 16, 2008, 10:09:26 PM »

ah ok, cheers!
Logged
fred
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 57


View Profile
« Reply #3 on: April 17, 2008, 01:47:09 PM »

ok, a few more questions here...

1) what is the difference between the several bits of bare wire and the one long thicker bit of bare wire that came with kit as far as uses go?

2) I have used the long screws to screw in the power socket, foot pedal socket and the board stands. is this correct? because i don't have any to screw the smaller boards in place now.
Logged
hywelg
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 896


View Profile
« Reply #4 on: April 17, 2008, 06:54:32 PM »

I'm guessing that the thinner wire is for early in the signal chain and the fatter is for the likes of the shorts across the output jack sockets. The long brass wire is for the busbar above the pots.

You will need the longer screws for the 5 small boards since they, with their insulating backing board are too fat for a short screw to fit. I used the short screws everywhere they would fit!
Logged
fred
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 57


View Profile
« Reply #5 on: April 17, 2008, 08:58:06 PM »

ah that does make a lot of sence. Thanks once again!
Logged
ic-racer
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 104



View Profile
« Reply #6 on: April 18, 2008, 04:23:39 AM »

I used that long straight piece for the buss bar.
I used the next thinner piece for the links from the pots to the buss bar.
I used the skinny ones that look like resistor leads for the shorts on the switches.
Logged
bluegate
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 63


View Profile
« Reply #7 on: April 18, 2008, 07:30:05 AM »

Here is a picture of my buss-bar, I used the lugs on the potmeters to hold it in place.
I assembled it on the outside for easy access, then just mounted it inside.

Logged
fred
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 57


View Profile
« Reply #8 on: April 18, 2008, 04:52:19 PM »

that is genious!
Logged
fred
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 57


View Profile
« Reply #9 on: April 19, 2008, 04:29:29 PM »

ok next question:
I am wiring the front panel at the moment and i am alittle confused. For connections T,V,X,C,Y,B,A, the thick black wire is used and the green wire connects to it on the diagram. Why can you not just solder the ground lugs of the pots with the other lugs that go to the board and valves?
thanks.
Logged
bluegate
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 63


View Profile
« Reply #10 on: April 19, 2008, 04:49:01 PM »

Those connections are Shielded Cables.
They are connected to ground on one side as close as possible to the inner core.
On the other side leave the shield in tack as far as possible and seal with shrinktube
so just a little core sticks out to solder in place.
Logged
fred
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 57


View Profile
« Reply #11 on: April 19, 2008, 05:04:47 PM »

what do you mean, "as close as possible to the inner core"?  in the example of the volume pot with lug 2 going to pin 7 of V1, with the ground bus attached to the shielded wire. Should i solder the core of the shielded wire to lug 2 AND to the wire coming from the ground bus which in affect, is the same as soldering lug 2 direct to the ground bus, then heat shrink this end. At the other end at V1, i then solder the core to the lug and also heat shrink this?
Or do i do something else?
Logged
bluegate
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 63


View Profile
« Reply #12 on: April 20, 2008, 12:44:04 AM »

On the pot side, keep everything as short as possible and wire them as shown.
On the otherside, use shrincktube and keep everything as short as possible.

You don't want to connect both sides of the shield to ground (groundloop hum)
If you don't use shielded cable or leave the leads to long, then you'll pickup noise & hum.

Logged
fred
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 57


View Profile
« Reply #13 on: April 20, 2008, 07:44:02 AM »

ah, ok, just to clear things up,  i do not solder anything to the shield of the wire, only the core, right?

thanks for all your help so far and sorry about the bnoobins questions.
Logged
hywelg
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 896


View Profile
« Reply #14 on: April 20, 2008, 08:21:16 AM »

Fred, you need to ground the shielding at the pot end, but not the other. Here's what I did.

Trim about 20mm of the outer sheath away. Un-weave(?) the shielding, move it all round to one side and twist it tight. Tin it and trim it back to about 10mm long.

Prepare a piece of black wire with 10mm of exposed wire, tinned.

Lay both wires on a piece of wood with the exposed wires next to one another and solder them together. Slip a piece of heat shrink tube over the thin wire and push it over the solder joint. Shrink it.

Fold the wire back, slip a larger piece of heat shrink over the lot leaving about 10mm of the inner wire exposed, shrink it. You can see this in the photos. Now you can strip the inner core and solder it to the pot tag and then do the same with the earth wire.

At the other end, trim about 20mm of outer sheath and the shielding leaving only the inner core. Cover the end of the outer sheath with some more heat shrink so the shielding is well covered.

Cheers

Hywel Harris
Logged
Pages: [1] 2 Go Up Print 
« previous next »
Jump to:  


Login with username, password and session length

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.12 | SMF © 2006-2009, Simple Machines LLC Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!

CeriaTone Forum is not afiliated with Ceriatone Amplifications. The CeriaTone and name, logo and related trademarks and service marks, owned by CeriaTone. , are registered and/or used in the U.S. and many foreign countries. All other trademarks, service marks, and trade names referenced in this site are the property of their respective owners.