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Author Topic: Chassis Powder Coating (New ones now have off white finish! ?)  (Read 15821 times)
captainbackfire
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« on: April 21, 2012, 06:43:15 AM »
I have an incoming kit.

I kind of want a unique look. I'm thinking of matte powder coat like TR. I have found a local service for just that though I need to know which areas need to be left bare maybe the strip of tube socket areas like on TR. Then the ground lugs. So do I need to maintain metal contact with the knobs and jacks/ switches? Note that I wouldn't be using the plastic? face plate/ back plate.

And any ideas to make a neat white Ceriatone lettering on the part where the name should be on the chassis? How about knob, jacks and switch labels? Can the powder coating service company provide lettering job? What do ppl like TR do? Is that silk screen?

Thanks a lot! I've read all 56 pages minus threads I skipped. I'm stoked to be posting for the first time in this fun Ceriatone community.

Nick
« Last Edit: April 30, 2012, 02:47:48 PM by captainbackfire » Logged
SoundPerf
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« Reply #1 on: April 21, 2012, 05:05:53 PM »
You want to make sure you have clean connections to the chassis for the grounds. So, if there is any coating/paint on areas that need grounded it's best to sand/grind them to the metal. If fact I usually sand any oxidation off regardless of paint. It would best to have them mask the inside of the chassis so it doesn't get any paint. Every amp has, or should have a specific ground scheme, but generally things like pots and switch bodies are grounded. Certain jacks are sometimes isolated from the chassis to avoid ground loops.

As far as lettering, the powder coating may be setup to do that stuff, but I doubt most powder coaters are. Yes, most labeling is done with silk screen. Silk screening is still the best way to do it.
« Last Edit: April 21, 2012, 05:14:37 PM by SoundPerf » Logged
Chris

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captainbackfire
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« Reply #2 on: April 21, 2012, 11:29:52 PM »
Thanks. I guess masking could be done with powdercoating. I'm researching about silk screening now.
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plasticvonaband
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« Reply #3 on: April 22, 2012, 01:21:54 AM »
The only thing i can think of as far using powder coating and lettering would be to mask off the areas that need lettering, with custom die cut decals,  like a reverse stencil, and then have the chassis powder coated, and the remove the decals. The hard part would be having the decals made and then removing them afterwards. You can also do the same thing with matte paint. I thought about making a faceplate out of copper and then acid etching the writing on it. Another option would be that if you have any friends that are graphic artists they could hand paint the writing on the chassis, which would make it unique. I'm not sure if paint sticks to power coat, though

Gregg
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Overdrive is like peanut butter. Some like it crunchy, some like it creamy.
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captainbackfire
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« Reply #4 on: April 22, 2012, 01:41:36 AM »
Oh you mean the lettering would be left unpainted like showing the shiny metal underneath the powdercoat? That's a bit more achievable I think an I'm used to do letterings and some graphics usually on guitar using masking xacto knife stencils and what not. Its just my priority to make it look as professional as possible and I wanna be able to literally copy the Ceriatone logo from the faceplates.
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SoundPerf
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« Reply #5 on: April 22, 2012, 03:59:36 AM »
Here's a link to something I'd like to check out sometime. There's a few key pieces of equipment needed. Like a color laser printer for one, (if you really want to do all kinds of stuff) and quality laminator, that make it a bit out of reach for me right now. Might be worth checking out.

http://www.pulsarprofx.com/decalpro/Vertical/1_MENU/1b_Overview/Overview.html

As Gregg mentioned, the thing that would make me think that trying to mask prior to power coating could be difficult would be the fact that it is baked and once that is done it's hard as a rock. Trying to remove delicate lettering could be a real pain.
« Last Edit: April 22, 2012, 04:03:08 AM by SoundPerf » Logged
Chris

Ceriatone HRM 50
w/self built Dumblelator
Avatar 2X12 w/WGS ET-65 & Veteran 30
TC Electronic 2290
2001 PRS McCarty
2010 PRS 513 Swamp Ash
Tacoma JK50C
Seagull S12+
plasticvonaband
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« Reply #6 on: April 22, 2012, 04:04:38 AM »
Quote from: SoundPerf on April 22, 2012, 03:59:36 AM
Here's a link to something I'd like to check out sometime. There's a few key pieces of equipment needed. Like a color laser printer for one, (if you really want to do all kinds of stuff) and quality laminator, that make it a bit out of reach for me right now. Might be worth checking out.

http://www.pulsarprofx.com/decalpro/Vertical/1_MENU/1b_Overview/Overview.html

As Gregg mentioned, the thing that would make me think that trying to mask prior to power coating could be difficult would be the fact that it is baked and once that is done it's hard as a rock. Trying to remove delicate lettering could be a real pain.


I forgot about that deal using the laser printer. I have thought about getting it and trying it out. Seems like it would work well
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Bluesmaster 50 2x12 combo and some guitars.
captainbackfire
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« Reply #7 on: April 23, 2012, 04:56:06 AM »
That's really useful and cool. If I had access to that years ago, I would've been able to do a lot with my custom guitars.

Anyway on second thought, I actually like the Ceriatone faceplate and might settle on those. What I dont actually like 100% is the HRM logo. When fate permits, I'm getting a Bluesmaster too and I would probably go ahead with a customized chassis finish. Thanks to you guys its all clear in my head now how to approach this.
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SoundPerf
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« Reply #8 on: April 24, 2012, 12:39:41 AM »
Quote from: captainbackfire on April 23, 2012, 04:56:06 AM
What I dont actually like 100% is the HRM logo.

Yeah, me too. There's something about "His Royal Majesty" that seems a little egotistical, or something. Tongue  I guess I'm too self-conscious, and no one has ever made any comments about the name, but I feel it makes it seem I think my "stuff doesn't stink".  Cheesy
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Chris

Ceriatone HRM 50
w/self built Dumblelator
Avatar 2X12 w/WGS ET-65 & Veteran 30
TC Electronic 2290
2001 PRS McCarty
2010 PRS 513 Swamp Ash
Tacoma JK50C
Seagull S12+
MrGoldTop
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« Reply #9 on: April 26, 2012, 10:30:57 PM »
Hey Captain,

Just an FYI.
I just received my latest kits and the chassis are now powdercoated steel. Kind of light tan gloss finish. You might want to wait until you receive it to decide what you want to do.

I can give you some hints at making those face plates your own too. PM if you are interested.
« Last Edit: April 26, 2012, 10:37:26 PM by MrGoldTop » Logged
captainbackfire
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« Reply #10 on: April 27, 2012, 03:28:56 AM »
Overtone now has a gloss light tan fiinish? Or is that a marshall?  Grin
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MrGoldTop
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« Reply #11 on: April 27, 2012, 04:04:00 PM »
I only build OTS style amps.
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AdrianJ
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« Reply #12 on: April 27, 2012, 08:13:35 PM »
Quote from: MrGoldTop on April 26, 2012, 10:30:57 PM
Hey Captain,

Just an FYI.
I just received my latest kits and the chassis are now powdercoated steel. Kind of light tan gloss finish. You might want to wait until you receive it to decide what you want to do.

I can give you some hints at making those face plates your own too. PM if you are interested.

The faceplates are still black though right?
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MrGoldTop
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« Reply #13 on: April 27, 2012, 08:23:35 PM »
Right. No change there.
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captainbackfire
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« Reply #14 on: April 28, 2012, 05:19:28 AM »
Thats really good news but how does it exactly have light tan finsih?  Grin
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