Ceriatone Forum

 Have you got any idea why the half power switch isn't wired to anything in the layout?
Will it work on the final amp?

 Thanks.


PS: great idea this forum, so we can keep Nik's email clean of too many questions and he can work on our orders.  I'm getting my Overtone next week.

The half power switch is there should you decide to beef up the output to a 4 6L6 configuration.  I still have to check with Nik to get the PT and OT specs.  I suspect the PT will handle the extra current draw but there will be an impedance mismatch on the OT.  I will let you know.

Oh, ok, so it's not for me, I've ordered the 50w standard version.  It should arrive here next week.  Does the half power switch simply get off two power tubes?

Take a look at the 36 watt layout on the Ceriatone site for a "similar" wiring of a half power switch.  It is a fairly involved addition. 

IMHO a half power switch on this particular amp is a bad idea.  These amps get their overdrive from the preamp into a clean power section.  With the extra 2 6L6's you are going to get a bit more headroom and a barely perceptible increase in measureable volume over the stock version.    However, the quad version has a fuller, rounded out, complete kind of tone to it.  That is the only difference.  So, I would suggest either hard wire it for one or the other and leave half power switching for amps that get their signature tones from overdriving their power sections.

I agree NOT a good idea for this type of amp in the 50 watt (2 x 6L6) version. My Fuchs mod was based on a 1978 Super Reverb, (2 x 6L6) and it came stock with a Pentode/Triode switch on the back. Sounded like crap (REALLY thin and weak) in the Triode mode with a SIGNIFICANT drop in output and volume. (obviously)

:)

Hi,

  Well, here's what happened.

  I thought of implementing the 1/2 power using triode mode.

  But it'd mess up the nice looks. Plus, I dont think the amp is that loud (ok, i know I need a near pair of ears)

  I dont think the 1/2 power should mess the tone that much?. The drop is not that significant, but it's there. At least, thats what we have for the other pentode/triode mode that we have done.

  I think Jelle suggested the switch to change value of PI cathode resistor, resulting in lower volume. This would be a way to go too.

  Thanks!

Nik

 

Well when I get one I'm gonna want a half power switch so you better start doing your homework  Nik...lol.
Seriously though, I LOVE the half power option on my 36W. True, it doesnt cut the "volume" in half but it DOES make a big difference. In half power mode in a small club it makes it easy to listen to and there's no "volume battle" between you, your tone, and the amp. Makes it much more versatile...not that that would make the overtone better. Seems like it might just be a headache trying to set-up the trim and od levels to work best for 2 different modes/personalities.
Whatever...I'll still want some sort of half power(ish) switch.

I want one of these amps but...I have SOOO many amps including an express clone and a 36RP with half power switch. My 36er is my favorite amp. Even better than the wreck. About 7 amps ago (when I got the 36w) I swore that I'd NEVER need another amp. The 36w was everything I need. What if I like the overtone better though? I dont like the express better...but...I guess I'll never know unless I get one right?
I realize that the price cant be beat anywhere anyhow...especially for amps of Nik's quality but...these things are getting up there. It'll definately be the amp I've spent the most on. Waitaminute....back in the early/mid '80s I bought a NEW JCM800 50W 1-12 combo with 1-12 (cant remember the model but it was very cool), reverb, and channel switching. I think I paid over $1300 for it. Traded it straight across for a fawn '76 100W halfstack. 

Maybe I'll have to "liquidate" a couple of old jems. That's hard to do though. I play in a 3pce so it would only take a couple of gigs for it to pay for itself.
Sorry...just trying to afford and justify..lol.
Later fellas

Hey man...

  First and foremost, thats the whole point - the amp made available to a wider audience.

  As for 1/2 power, I really dont think it's needed. The MV works quite well on this amp. And you can indeed get lots of varieties of tones, it can get confusing at times (have those small note books ready to record the settings).

  As for setting -

  The amp can have quite a large head room. Trick is not to max master, with vol up.
   OD can be set with the Level and Ratio controls. I think it's easy to set it to the desired levels between cleans and OD.

   TWeak it to taste with the other tone switches (my footswitch is only OD and PAB. Now I see why it's good to also footswitch everything. Perhaps I will do the "Artiste Footswitch" - note the spelling is with "e" at the end :).

  I'm rambling...I will now go to sleep!

   Thanks!

Nik
 

 

 After reading a few of the posts, a suggestion , instead of a half power switch, a Weber Mini Mass 50 watt attenuator instead.

you'll need a mass 100 with a 50w amp.
does nik sell a 100w version of the overtone?

I think I heard a rumour...  ;D

I'd still go for the 50W though, I don't think I play big enough venues to justify a 100W amp...though I'd be interested to hear how it sounds compared to the 50W at the same volume...

The original style 50/100 switch is easy to implement. Basically, the switch passes the cathode current of two tubes through a resistor and a LED. This lights up the LED (50W indicator) and shuts off two tubes. Here is a schematic : http://ceriatoneforum.com/index.php?topic=201.msg3135#msg3135

As mentioned, another way to lower power is by adding some resistance to the cathodes. This method actually once had an active patent by Richie Kager (Ampeg/Sundown). http://www.delphion.com/details?&pn=US04636740__

So would a 100w Overtone running on 50W via the 50W switch, sound/perform the same as a pure 50W Overtone?

If you switch off 2 power tubes, your impedance doubles so you'll have to switch the output impedance to be half of what the switch says.