They are diodes — 1n4007 — carefully note their polarity on the layout. It has become a standard "best practice" for amp builders to add these as a fallback for the tube and are becoming very common on boutique amps and even mass-produced amps. These should be used on all rectifier tube sockets.

http://www.premierguitar.com/Magazine/Issue/2008/Jul/The_Immortal_Amplifier_Mod.aspx

They are a bit ambiguous on the layouts, I disagree with Nik not publishing his schematics. Layouts are intended for assembly by people who have be trained in the procedure of wiring amps, and omit many details that are assumed the assembler doesn't have be reminded of (like heater wiring). Schematics on the other hand are the real roadmaps of the amp and include everything.


You can check continuity before you wire in the OT to know which solder tab to connect which OT tap to. But since all the transformer taps are connected together at the coil, you'll get a continuity beep for every tap at every switch setting if you check after you've wired it up.

I haven't built the Dizzy 30 itself, so I'm not familiar with the retainers Nik uses, but usually the spring is already attached the the mounting lug on most styles, you just bolt it to the chassis with the tube socket screw.

EL84's are prone to microphonics, especially in combos, so I would use some sort of retainer. The string kind are nice because they allow a bit of tolerance, newer EL84 styles are all deviating from the traditional size as companies try and make a more robust EL84, the Sovtek EL84M and Mullard are larger bottles than old style EL84's and the TAD are shorter and fatter.

There have been threads here where people have said they had to add the shield next to the OT after trying to skip it, so I would add it.

Looking at the layout (and applying best practices in amp building)...
1.) A1 and A2 from the Normal input jacks to V1.
2.) C1 and C2 from the EF86 inputs to V3.
These are pretty much givens.

Looking at the picture below (and referencing the layout)...
3.) B from the Volume pot of the Normal channel to Pin 2 of the V2.
4.) From D, E,F, and G to the FX loop jacks.

Note the standoffs used to connect the 68K input resistors between the shielded wire and the tube sockets.


This rotating 180° from the above pics, it's V1 and V2....


Also rotating 180°, it's V3....

FX Loop jacks (rotated...what 150°?)...


Note V1 has everything connected across the triodes because they are wired in parallel, Matchless must have had a leftover triode and decided to use it in parallel with the first gain stage, this doesn't really add a significant amount of gain, but really beefs up the tone.

Found a schematic for the Matchless C30, don't expect the Ceriatone to be an exact match, but it's a great reference...

Wyatt, after reviewing these appreciative photos, the shielded wire which runs from V1 up to the normal channel inputs, there are two hots and then one grounded within the same one wire. i'm not sure as I haven't looked at the coax within the kit, but normally isn't there just one live lead and ground within most coax wire?? just wondering if I'll have to run a 2nd separate coax to accomplish the same job..

Thanks Wyatt, The supplied shielded wire is single signal and braided ground only...Be great if I could get Nik to send multi strand up to finish this build Whats the best method to contact the man ?

I think it would look so much cleaner having two signal leads and shielding within the one wire and with any luck nik will take care of me over it, rather than running two singles....fingers crossed   

Wondering about "D" on the layout, as it shows it runs from the upper effects loop input then up to the 220K and 100K resistors on the board,,,does it need to be just straight wire or shielded because in the photos you included Wyatt, it look like there are 4 shielded connections on the effects loop inputs...wanted to make sure before I ran anything...thank you again for the help..