One thing good about leaving more slack is you have enough wire to redo things.

One this to be very aware of when reworking the tube socket pins is be very careful not to let solder flow down inside the pin socket. This is a big PITA and usually means needing to get a new socket. Oh, and remove the tube first.

Follow what Nik was pointing out. There are definitely some bad solder connections on the tubes. What type of solder are you using and what temp do you have the soldering iron set at? Or what type/wattage iron are you using?

Yes, a good soldering iron will do wonders. Sounds like you picked a good one. I think you're on your way to getting things sorted out. You'll be jamm'n in no time. 

This a really good point. Mine is in need of a new one now. I've been nursing it along, but the last time I used it, it was really making things difficult. I'm too stingy! 

Yes diodes are in correct direction but they should be insulated!

 There should be a cap and a resistor at the standby switch!


Cant tell where the wires are going on the first pot next to the power switch but does not look right! Should just go to next pot over ( Mid ).

This is the layout you are following right ?>  http://www.ceriatone.com/images/layoutPic/marshallLayout/18wattTMBceriatone.jpg

I still do not see speaker ground at star ground! is this pic taken since that fix?

Please try to take some pics that will show the whole amps guts if possible as well as closeups of the tubes socket area and all the pots as well.

Todd

OK I hate to keep asking for more pics but I still dont see any pics that show the wiring at all the pots, jacks,etc.

On the full gut pic you posted it appears to be missing a 100 ohm resistor going from the tone knob to the ground buss. I cant see much more due to the lip of the chassis

One thing I cannot help you with is making sure the resistors are the correct value ( I am colorblind, thank god for digital multimeters ) but I am pretty good at finding miswiring so keep the pics coming and I will see if there is anything you are missing. You said you resoldered 90%, may want to reflow the other 10% for good measure.

Dont give up, I think you are getting closer

Todd

I do not know what SCN stands for, but it is in the same location on the PT as E so that makes me wonder?
I recommend you contact the manufacturer and ask before grounding it. Appears GDS uses hyboer or EMS trafos but I still cant find any specs that show SCN! I bet this needs to be grounded just dont want you to ground it until sure.

It is a little blurry but the middle lug of your bass pot appears to be a cold joint! Solder should not be balled up like that

Also, I do not see any wires landed on the turrets of the main board coming from your pots. If you landed them on the bottom of the board you should double check that each wire is going to the correct spot and that the solder joints are good. Turrets need a little more heat to get good solder joints.

I would still like to see pics of the rest of your internal wiring, such as the jacks and the rest of the pots to the right side of the last pics you just posted.

I will be pretty busy today but when I get some free time I will check back this afternoon

Todd

Was it the SCN to ground?
And how does everything sound now?

Todd