Here's a link to a description of the basic variants.  See about the 5th post down.

http://ceriatoneforum.com/index.php?topic=1117.0

If you're in the US, check out Tenguitars as well:

http://ceriatoneforum.com/index.php?topic=3963.0

Although this link mentions only head cabs, he also does speaker cabs.  I couldn't be happier with mine - looks and sounds fantastic.

I just got my OTS last month, so I'm still messing around with my setup, but right now:

EB Volume Pedal - Teese RMC3 wah - homemade germanium FF (fuller mods) - OTS FM100, 2x12 cab with EVM-12Ls.

In the C-lator:  Chandler Stereo (but in mono, of course!) Echo - Lexicon MPX-200 for 'verb.

I've got Blackstone MOSFET Overdrive that I'd like to put in there somewhere for a little Marshall flavor.  Ideally it should be first. I've also just built a clean boost pedal that may see some use.

I too have dealt with Henry on a OTS FM 100 (he put in the trannies and choke, and built the head cab) and a matching 2x12 cabinet and could not be happier with both the tone and the looks of his work.  Best of all, he kept me in the loop, made some wise suggestions for some switchable, low cost mods that expand my tonal options a bit, and patiently answered all my questions.  It's always a bit nerve wracking to deal with someone across the country (USA) that you don't know when there's well in excess of 4 figures involved, but I wouldn't hesitate to work with Henry again. 

Now, to get this baby out to some gigs! 

I've heard the same thing, and more than once.  Still, I'd like to know what that is....

What suggested settings are those?

I'm waiting to receive my new OTS FM100, built largely by Nik but with a few components by tenguitars (Henry Cendejas -- who, if you haven't dealt with him, has been absolutely wonderful; I have a 2x12 coming from him shortly as well).  Should arrive Saturday, subject to the vagaries of FedEx Ground this time of year....

I've been fascinated by electronics for awhile now (having built perhaps 7 or 8 various pedals plus a couple of A/B switches), but I'm coming to it too late in years to have the opportunity to really study it.  To amuse myself while I wait, I've been comparing the layouts of the regular OTS 100 and the OTS FM 100 to try to spot the differences, of which there were (to me) surprisingly few.  I realized after completing the task, however, that I really had no idea what the various changes did to the tone, or even what components constituted the tone stack vs. some other part of the amp -- much less which are the "plate resistors" and "slope resistors" are, and - and - and ... !

I've just ordered a copy of Gerald Weber's Understanding Vacuum Tube Guitar Amplifiers DVD, which I hope will satisfy my curiosity about this stuff in general.  However, I'm wondering if anybody would be interested, by way of educating the rest of us, in explaining how the differences between these two amps affects the tone.  If not (and I wouldn't blame you), any suggestions for a good website or article on this general subject?

Thanks for reading, and even more for guidance.

Tim

Cool idea with the rotary switch -- I might build one just to try it out.

Thanks all.

I perhaps should mention that my amp will have a switch giving me a few different options for bright caps on the MV, which will no doubt have some affect on this issue.

I've got an OTS FM100 coming in the next few weeks.  I've already got the C-lator and am rigging that up with a Chandler Stereo Digital Echo and a Lexicon MPX200 in a 3 space rack, along with modifying my pedalboard, loading EVM-12Ls into cabinets, and otherwise getting ready.

I've read here and there that the FM, in particular, has some unpleasantly piercing highs that need to be "tamed" (everybody uses that word!).  The recommendation has been RG400 cables from the OTS to the c-lator and back, of sufficient length (as I understand it) such that the natural capacitance of he cabling removes tames the offending highs.  My understanding is that this RG400 stuff is very low capacitance (perhaps similar to if not identical with George L cable).

My questions are several:

1)  Is the reputation of the high end on the FM 100 universally accepted as being an issue?
2)  Why use the RG400 if you want to add capacitance and they're LOW capacitance?  It seems like higher capacitance (which mostly corresponds to cheaper) cables would do the trick with shorter lengths.
3)  What are folks with these amps using and how do you find it working out for you?

I realize that part of the answer is "wait to see how it sounds to you and then try a few things" but I'm hoping to be as near to ready to really play (as opposed to tweak) this thing by the time it arrives, so I'm seeking advice now so I can get a general sense of what to expect.

I await your collective wisdom.

Thanks guys!

Wow -- that looks fantastic!

Wow -- those ares some beautiful cabs.

And - it may go without saying - make sure you take it OFF BEFORE PLUGGING BACK IN!!!

Well, good news I think.  I reflowed all connections at the power tubes (and for good measure) at the output socket.  I haven't had time to put it through a real stress test, but I played for about 15 minutes with no loss in power or weird noises.

I took this route because (a) the turret board was constructed by Nik, so I was assuming at least for the time being that the issue wasn't there, and (b) I simply couldn't face the idea of redoing EVERYTHING.

(One minor point for Todd -- while those are crimp connectors on the grounds, I actually did, in the initial build, flow some solder on them, so I think they're okay.  Your point about the powder coat is a good one though, and maybe one of these days I'll clean it off at the ground locations to be sure it's good.)


Thanks everyone for their suggestions.  Hopefully I'll have some time to play through this amp some more soon and will let everyone know if the problem persists.

Not sure what your concern is here -- either you like the tone (which you say you do) of the amp for the purpose you have in mind or not.  In (most?) churches, I assume a dual rectifier would be inappropriate, but that not what these are, obviously.