Wondering about "D" on the layout, as it shows it runs from the upper effects loop input then up to the 220K and 100K resistors on the board,,,does it need to be just straight wire or shielded because in the photos you included Wyatt, it look like there are 4 shielded connections on the effects loop inputs...wanted to make sure before I ran anything...thank you again for the help..

Well, Nik was quick in replying to my email and he noted that all his kits now are supplied with the single conductor shielded wire, so I guess that means, i'll be running two separate runs, but that's ok,,maybe not as clean as using a single, but it'll get the job done.. Many thanks again Wyatt for your assistance..

I think it would look so much cleaner having two signal leads and shielding within the one wire and with any luck nik will take care of me over it, rather than running two singles....fingers crossed   

Thanks Wyatt, The supplied shielded wire is single signal and braided ground only...Be great if I could get Nik to send multi strand up to finish this build Whats the best method to contact the man ?

Wyatt, after reviewing these appreciative photos, the shielded wire which runs from V1 up to the normal channel inputs, there are two hots and then one grounded within the same one wire. i'm not sure as I haven't looked at the coax within the kit, but normally isn't there just one live lead and ground within most coax wire?? just wondering if I'll have to run a 2nd separate coax to accomplish the same job..

That's far better than I expected Wyatt..

Thank you very much for the help..

Ya, its kinda a weird setup with the retainers, the springs have no eyelet to hook into anything, its just a straight spring, but hopefully someone might chime in and help me out

being you haven't built one of these amps wyatt, I guess you might not know then where the shielded wires run...I know on the 5E3's I built they run up to the volume, but i'm not sure at all on these, and there's no indication either on the layout where it would be so simply to add that to the drawing while their doing it, and again, Hopefully Nik will start adding that in the future for people..

Thanks Wyatt, I realized once I posted that infact they were diodes, Excellent reading from premierguitar, that's a great idea to have them in there...i'm going to be adding them to my 5E3 also, and should've thought of this before..

I agree of the importance of a schematic and in my opinion, it should be a prerequisite with any kit, hopefully Nik will make them available in the future..

regarding the continuity check, I meant checking the switch only, prior to installing OT wires (i'm using West Labs trannies)...but i'll get it figured out..

what's the deal with the power tube spring retainers, are you suppose to fasten star lugs to tube socket hold down bolts, then wind the spring into retainer eyelet, or are these even necessary, as with the thin aluminum shielding plate that's intended to go between the OT and pre amp tubes, as I see in some photos, they were not installed...

Thanks again for your help.

Building this first DC30 and trying to figure out from this Aug 2012 Layout on the rectifier tube sockets on pins 4-5, 6-7 what they are. are they suppose to be resistors, and of so what values...quite a change building one of these from a few Trinitys I've done where things are explained better.. 

also, with the impendance Switch, is it just as easy to do an continuity check for what wire feeds which centre pin an what goes to the 4,8 and 16 taps ?? 
 
Thank you

I was just over at the bench, took one of those fibre washers and with a razor blade as the fibre washer seem to be laminated as sliced the washer in half which was very easy to do, and now the jacks tighten up perfectly..

hope this help out any new builders

very nice looking build too Psamm and thank you for your thoughts and I didn't mean to hijack your post

I'm just in the process of putting one together myself and also noticed the issues with the jacks and with the thickness of the chassis and faceplate, you cant use the insulating washers, but only the decorative outter washer plus cgrome threaded nut..i''m just wondering rather than tediously sand the thickness of a washer down for every jack, could I not just file the length of the threaded nut down instead so it wouldn't bottom out and things still not be snug? thank you