how to install the 5E3 in a combo cab?

[ToneQuest]

My 5E3 has arrived. It's the combo pack 4 without cab and speaker. I got a period- correct TAD Tweed cab and a Weber 12A125A.
In short, I've got all the parts to be assembled. When lifting the amp I noticed the PT is very heavy and I'm a bit worried that only two chassis mounting screws with matching hex-nut (these are the one I bought from TAD:
http://www.tubeampdoctor.com/product_info.php?products_id=1284&language=en) is not enough to hold the heavy chassis in place.
To get things right: there are the two big holes on top of the chassis (like rectangles but slightly rounded). I assume these are the ones for the screws on top of the amp’s cab.

Now I’ve noticed there are 3 more smallish holes on the side wall of the chassis where the PT sits. Are they’re there for further screws? For example smaller screws to be drilled through the side of the cab to further support the chassis on the PT side?
If so, that side wall of the chassis will not touch the inner wall of the cab, so I'm not sure how effective that support is.

Any help and advice on how the install the amp properly so it stays in place in the cab safely is much appreciated. Perhaps someone could even provide pictures how it's properly done. Thanks very much.

 

[hired hand]

When I built our 5E3 and mounted it in a combo cab I had the very problem you describe.  At first I mounted an "L" (90 degree) bracket on one of the PT screws and then screwed that into the back of the baffle.  It worked fine for stabilizing the chassis, but it was real hard to access when you wanted to remove the chassis.  What I have done now is to use that same "L" bracket, mounted on the chassis, next to the rectifier tube, and then screw that to the side of the cab.  It makes it much easier to take off when I need to pull the chassis. The bracket is on the bottom of the chassis, and hangs down with the tube sockets.
Good Luck

[wyatt]

Traditionally, the chassis bolts are all that is used.  Not sure how much bigger Nik's PT is, but once the chassis is flush to the cab, it hold itself securely in place.  If you are a cautious, got to the hardware store and buy stainless steel bolts and nuts and lock washers. 

Baffle boards are designed to flex and move, chassis' are not.  I wouldn't connect the two.

[ToneQuest]

Thanks for your comments.
The PT is surprisingly heavy and, although the two screws on top may be sufficient to hold the chassis, I'm not too sure about it when carrying the amp around. And I'm very careful with my gear.
Thanks hired hand. Good idea, so I’m thinking of using a 90 degree metal bracket to support the heavy PT side of the chassis. I’ll attach one side of the angle to the inner side wall of the cab (with screws) so that it will support the PT. Obviously I won’t use screws on the PT side.
I asked Nik and there shouldn't be any problem if there’s a metal plate directly in touch with the PT. However, I might make an angled bracket out of wood. Not sure yet.

[hired hand]

If you remove one of the PT screws, you can use that to secure the bracket.  Just pull it out, put the screw through your bracket, install screw with bracket back into the PT.  It will be fine, there is no problem with that.  What might be hard is the proximity to the speaker.  I assume your transformers are at a 90 degree angle to your tubes; the trannies face the baffle?  Once the speaker is installed, depending on the dimensions of your cab, you may have a devil of a time getting at that bracket again. That is why I moved mine to the chassis, next to the recto. Now, when I need to pull the chassis, it is real easy to access the bracket to release the chassis from the cab. 
Our amps travel a lot. Without that bracket, there was an inclination for the chassis to move (front to back) under the weight of the PT. That little, metal, 90 bracket keeps everything nice and snug.  It was really a load off my mind.
As far as screwing to the baffle, there is no problem. There is a frame all around the baffle that can be screwed to. There is no way that baffle is ever going to move. I think wyatt had envisioned a floating baffle, with a couple of screws on the top and bottom, with me screwing right to the baffle face. And yes, that would at least have the potential to interfere with the speaker acoustics.
Good Luck

[ToneQuest]

It should be sufficient to attach the angled bracket on the inner wall of the cab with two screws. Just to support the PT, no need to screw it to the PT, I think.
Things are going to be very tight in there. My main worry is the 6v6 tube closest to the speaker magnet cover. When I drill the holes for the chassis I have to make sure I move it sideways as much as I can and even so the tube is almost touching the magnet cover. It should work but it's very tight. Trouble is whenever I have to remove that tube I'll have to take out the chassis because the speaker is in the way. Very inconvenient.
Both Nik's chassis and the cab dimension are period-correct. Do the original Tweed Deluxe amps have the same problem? Tube too close to the speaker?

[hired hand]

Is the speaker centered in the baffle, or is it off-set?

[ToneQuest]

It is offset. It's the TAD 5E3 amp cabinet: http://www.tubeampdoctor.com/popup_image.php?pID=858
I think they followed the original specs. Well, the magnet cover of the Weber speaker is fairly large...
Anyway, I think it will fit but one of the power tubes will be very close and a tube swap won't be possible without moving the chassis. Oh, well... as long as it sound great.

[hired hand]

Can you/If you turn the baffle 180 degrees will that help with the tube-speaker proximity?

[ToneQuest]

Good idea but the off-set part is already on the far right. So turning the baffle round would make things worse.