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Author Topic: Dizzy 30, 1st timer  (Read 3312 times)
Ivan Durak
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« on: October 06, 2012, 07:18:11 AM »

Hi everyone.

First time here. I've read many topics and find the support members give each other great. And precise!
I'm kindly asking for some of that support...

For my fist amp build, I'm looking at the Dizzy 30. Crazy, I know.
Since I'll mostly be playing at home VVR is a must.
Also, my budget is limited.
Last point: I live in Moscow. The DIY mentality runs strong in this part of the world, and with 15 million people you get suppliers and talent. But quality parts are a bit tougher to get by then, say, in France or Italy.

Being a complete beginner, I don't even know which questions should be asked first. I'll just fire away and hope some will actually make sense.

1) Does the VVR actually limit the maximum volume capacity of the amp? I kinda want to keep its ear-splitting ability intact...
If the VVR does limit the actual max output, is there a way to cancel the VVR? If I understand correctly, it is placed right after the power source, meaning it lessens all the voltage going in the amp. Is it switcheable in a way to give the amp back it's "integrity"?

2) Can I replace the EF86's with another tube model? I checked local supply and they can be qualitative, EXCEPT for the EFs. Ideally I'd want a pentode replacement which produces very similar response, but that doesn't break up every 6 months, or pick up the local Orthodox Choir FM station.

3) Grounding: I rent an apartment and cannot change plugs or electrical system. Not a single plug with ground. Now that is a risk I won't take. Is there a solution to this, testing and running a tube amp without grounded plugs?

4) Silly, but... On top of pliers, soldering kit and screwdrivers, which tools will I need?

5) How do I test the amp while building? Links to methods would do for the moment.

6) Plenty of radio interference where I live, and my main guitar has P90s. What are the common shielding techniques for complicated amps like the Dizzy?

7) I can barely read schematics. My physics classes are long forgotten. I'm not a complete moron so I'll use them and pictures of completed amps. How is Ceriatone's support (and patience) in dealing with noobs and really, really basic questions?

Cool What the hell is a bright cap?

9) Is there a complete parts list somewhere?

That's it for now. All my thanks to everybody who posted all these informative posts (and pictures) on the forum!
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bcmatt
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« Reply #1 on: October 18, 2012, 01:44:18 AM »

Hi Ivan,
I'm wondering if you are still looking for a response all this time later, but I guess it's been just over a week.
I built this DC30 kit from Ceriatone as my very first project and it turned out quite well. I installed VVR and it is an amazing sounding amp.

1) No, VVR gives you control over the DC voltage fed to the plates of all the tubes. Turning the VVR knob all the way up is running at normal voltage as if it is not in the circuit. I think it may be possible that it may cause it to lose a volt or 2 compared to it not being in the circuit at all, but that would never be noticed in tone or volume.

2)The EF86 can not be easily swapped with any other tube that I can think of easily. I think JJ has the EF806 but, there is nothing that is much cheaper or easily available. Also, I've tried a few and it is worth it to spend more and get something that is less likely to be microphonic. If you are not interested in the what the  EF86 offers, I would perhaps suggest something like a Trainwreck rocket which is more straight forward but an amazing amp and quite stable. A similar style and tone of amp, but probably even better designed. If I lost all my amps (DC30, TW Liverpool, JCM800, 5e3, I think I would risk it all and just go for a rocket (with VVR) instead)

3)I don't know what to do about grounding. I guess that was what it was like everywhere back in the olden days, but I'm not sure how it was dealt with or whether everything electronic was always in danger and people were getting electrocuted or what.... probably people in your area would know more about how to deal with this...

4)I guess those things, and some good wire cutter/strippers. I multimeter can be handy for testing, but you could survive this build without one if you had to. Also, make sure your soldering iron is at least 30 watts and that your solder contains lead, otherise it will be a very frustrating venture trying to get things hot enough to flow without slowly overheating everything else around it that shouldn't get too hot.

5)Testing while building shouldn't be necessary aside from checking and rechecking that you are following the layout exactly. You might want the multi-meter to measure components, but they should be fine.

6) I found that spray gluing aluminum foil to the cabinet ceiling allowed better shielding and protection for the innards of the amp. Shielding your guitar would also help a lot since you use single-coils.

7) Traditionally, ceriatone's support has been really great. The company has grown significantly since I built their kits, but I imagine it has kept up. Regardless, there is often great help on forums such as this.

Cool Not sure the context of thequestion, but it is typically a capacitor that alters the tone of the amp in very ealry stages near the input that makes the tone brighter. (some amps have a bright switch)

9) I don't think there is a parts list or BOM on the website for this amp company, but I think the kits do ship with one that the shippers check off as they fill your order.


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Purpleharmonix
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« Reply #2 on: November 09, 2012, 05:34:24 PM »

I just finished a DZ30 and absolutely love it. Use the pics Nik has on the Dizzy 30 page at Ceriatone.com as you build. They are real helpful at understanding wire routing and whatnot. I had a few questions and Nik answered almost immediately through email.

For the build, definitely get a multimeter. One that has an audible continuity setting really helps. Use it to check continuity of your solder connections as you move along in the build. Make sure every grounding connection has continuity to the star ground and that every solder joint you make has continuity to the other end of the wire you just soldered.

As for EF86's there are a lot of suppliers in Russia with NOS RFT & Tesla tubes. These get pretty good reviews for ef86 tubes. Many nos ef86's are cheaper that new issue. (RFT, Tungsram, Tesla). I just purchased a boxed nos Amperex Holland Bugle Boy for $36 from an Ebay seller in the US. new production ef's are around $35.

Good luck and enjoy building your dream amp.  Grin
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Ivan Durak
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« Reply #3 on: February 22, 2013, 07:59:51 AM »



7) Traditionally, ceriatone's support has been really great. The company has grown significantly since I built their kits, but I imagine it has kept up. Regardless, there is often great help on forums such as this.


Indeed! Thank you so much for your answers. I'll also take your opinion in mind: checking out the Rock It etc.

I was away or a long time, but back and soon ready to start building an amp.
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Ivan Durak
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« Reply #4 on: February 22, 2013, 08:01:29 AM »


As for EF86's there are a lot of suppliers in Russia with NOS RFT & Tesla tubes. These get pretty good reviews for ef86 tubes. Many nos ef86's are cheaper that new issue. (RFT, Tungsram, Tesla). I just purchased a boxed nos Amperex Holland Bugle Boy for $36 from an Ebay seller in the US. new production ef's are around $35.

I'll look into that. Thank you!
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