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Author Topic: Need Help...Please.. Power Issue 18Watt TMB  (Read 22990 times)
tboulette
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« Reply #15 on: October 18, 2011, 02:38:34 PM »

Just use something like a 1K 5W resistor, from + of cap to ground, held for a few seconds. Check with meter to see any voltage left.

And - it may go without saying - make sure you take it OFF BEFORE PLUGGING BACK IN!!!
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-Tim

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« Reply #16 on: October 18, 2011, 05:15:00 PM »

One thing good about leaving more slack is you have enough wire to redo things.

One this to be very aware of when reworking the tube socket pins is be very careful not to let solder flow down inside the pin socket. This is a big PITA and usually means needing to get a new socket. Oh, and remove the tube first.

Follow what Nik was pointing out. There are definitely some bad solder connections on the tubes. What type of solder are you using and what temp do you have the soldering iron set at? Or what type/wattage iron are you using?
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Chris

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« Reply #17 on: October 18, 2011, 09:52:55 PM »

Thanks Nik....

Yeah I'm planning to drain the capacitor and start resoldering each pin.

Chris... the solder iron I was using when I first started was the major problem.

It was a cheap, piece of junk I had that was old. Had used it for for other projects around the House. Would not heat up. Thought I'd start with it.... see how it would work.... big mistake.

Went to HomeDepot and got a Weller 40watt... you can almost see the difference on the Pic's..... The good solder joints and clean and shinny... but their are some That I rushed.... made a mess...

But one thing I did not know is making the "hook" for each wire... makes sense.
I did "tin" each wire... but did not hook.

Thanks, Craig
 
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SoundPerf
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« Reply #18 on: October 19, 2011, 05:01:33 AM »

Thanks Nik....

Yeah I'm planning to drain the capacitor and start resoldering each pin.

Chris... the solder iron I was using when I first started was the major problem.

It was a cheap, piece of junk I had that was old. Had used it for for other projects around the House. Would not heat up. Thought I'd start with it.... see how it would work.... big mistake.

Went to HomeDepot and got a Weller 40watt... you can almost see the difference on the Pic's..... The good solder joints and clean and shinny... but their are some That I rushed.... made a mess...

But one thing I did not know is making the "hook" for each wire... makes sense.
I did "tin" each wire... but did not hook.

Thanks, Craig

Yes, a good soldering iron will do wonders. Sounds like you picked a good one. I think you're on your way to getting things sorted out. You'll be jamm'n in no time.  Wink
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Chris

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ampkits
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« Reply #19 on: October 19, 2011, 08:09:37 PM »

Thats cool, thanks guys.

Talkin abt iron, we usually use Hakko. Forgot the model name but its not that pricey. Usually, they'd last 2 years or so, and thats with heavy  daily use (8 hrs a day).

Be sure, if you use regularly to change the tip when necessary. Dont be stingy with that Smiley

Thanks!

nik
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SoundPerf
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« Reply #20 on: October 19, 2011, 11:27:44 PM »

Be sure, if you use regularly to change the tip when necessary. Dont be stingy with that Smiley

This a really good point. Mine is in need of a new one now. I've been nursing it along, but the last time I used it, it was really making things difficult. I'm too stingy!  Embarrassed
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Chris

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« Reply #21 on: October 21, 2011, 05:56:21 PM »

Sorry to say Guys....Still having same problems

After 90% resolder.... some did not need at the pots positions... Still same issue.

Have to turn volume all the way up to here the guitar... on both channels normal and TMB.

Took voltage readings... V6 is within specifications 272v at pin 1 and pin 6... all others are way over the top... hot.

Here are the others:

.....................Pin 1........................pin 6

v1................ 284 .......................330
v2................. 307 ...................... 337
v3................ 308 ....................... 356

....................pin 7 ........................ pin 9

v4................382......................... 379
v5................ 382....................... 379.

Here are more pic's...... Still think I have done something wrong on the power feed.

Are the Diodes pointed in the right direction?

Thanks, Craig



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T Wilcox
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« Reply #22 on: October 21, 2011, 08:20:42 PM »

Yes diodes are in correct direction but they should be insulated!

 There should be a cap and a resistor at the standby switch!


Cant tell where the wires are going on the first pot next to the power switch but does not look right! Should just go to next pot over ( Mid ).

This is the layout you are following right ?>  http://www.ceriatone.com/images/layoutPic/marshallLayout/18wattTMBceriatone.jpg

I still do not see speaker ground at star ground! is this pic taken since that fix?

Please try to take some pics that will show the whole amps guts if possible as well as closeups of the tubes socket area and all the pots as well.

Todd
« Last Edit: October 21, 2011, 08:34:04 PM by T Wilcox » Logged

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« Reply #23 on: October 21, 2011, 10:37:41 PM »

Yeah, I took off the heat shrink insulation that I had on the diodes, to show them... I'll put the heat shrink back later...

The cap and resistor at the standby switch I took off... but I can't remember why I did that??? Huh?

The pot next to the power switch is correct per the layout.... and speaking of layout, I did follow the 18watt layout March 2010... In fact before I started this build, got a big piece of cardboard. Did a "Blowup" of the layout and taped it to my cardboard.

Then got online and found a resistor chart to make sure I had the right "values" of resistors going to the right places.... Then taped each resistor and capacitor on the "Cardboard Blowup" before I ever soldered anything.

When I got ready for a certain resistor or capacitor I just removed it from the cardboard and solder it in.....

However.... I could have made a mistake... but I did double check all.

Got the "sleeve" of the output jacks grounded.... per the picture to follow.

Thanks, Craig



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T Wilcox
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« Reply #24 on: October 22, 2011, 01:59:45 AM »

OK I hate to keep asking for more pics but I still dont see any pics that show the wiring at all the pots, jacks,etc.

On the full gut pic you posted it appears to be missing a 100 ohm resistor going from the tone knob to the ground buss. I cant see much more due to the lip of the chassis

One thing I cannot help you with is making sure the resistors are the correct value ( I am colorblind, thank god for digital multimeters ) but I am pretty good at finding miswiring so keep the pics coming and I will see if there is anything you are missing. You said you resoldered 90%, may want to reflow the other 10% for good measure.

Dont give up, I think you are getting closer

Todd
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« Reply #25 on: October 22, 2011, 03:02:24 AM »

Todd,  I've noticed something before on the Ceriatone Layout that is on the PT...

By the 120v tap is 0 for ground and also "E" which goes to ground... what is "E"Huh?

On my GDS PT their is a tap mark "SCN" not sure what this is for either...

Pic's to follow

Thanks, Craig


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T Wilcox
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« Reply #26 on: October 22, 2011, 04:52:23 PM »

I do not know what SCN stands for, but it is in the same location on the PT as E so that makes me wonder?
I recommend you contact the manufacturer and ask before grounding it. Appears GDS uses hyboer or EMS trafos but I still cant find any specs that show SCN! I bet this needs to be grounded just dont want you to ground it until sure.

It is a little blurry but the middle lug of your bass pot appears to be a cold joint! Solder should not be balled up like that

Also, I do not see any wires landed on the turrets of the main board coming from your pots. If you landed them on the bottom of the board you should double check that each wire is going to the correct spot and that the solder joints are good. Turrets need a little more heat to get good solder joints.

I would still like to see pics of the rest of your internal wiring, such as the jacks and the rest of the pots to the right side of the last pics you just posted.

I will be pretty busy today but when I get some free time I will check back this afternoon

Todd
« Last Edit: October 22, 2011, 05:21:30 PM by T Wilcox » Logged

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« Reply #27 on: October 25, 2011, 03:52:45 AM »

FIXED!!!!!!!

Emailed Graydon at GDS... He set me strait.... Grin

Thanks, Craig
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T Wilcox
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« Reply #28 on: October 25, 2011, 01:00:41 PM »

Was it the SCN to ground?
And how does everything sound now?

Todd
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« Reply #29 on: October 25, 2011, 05:35:59 PM »

YES...... SCN needs to be hooked to ground.

Also, Graydon's picture had "0" and "CT" on the 6.3v feed... different than mine.

So I changed mine, to mirror his....

Before and After.....


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